Two more Exams to go til SUMMER 2009 !!!

It goes without saying that I am psyK'd for the summer. Most noteably I am looking forward to seeing everyone in Washington state that I've sacrificed spending time with lately to be here in DC in nursing school. I am also VERY pleased with the prospect of climbing lot's, enjoying good living with some new friends, $aving lot'$, and just chill'n, hopefully. Till then... studies and training continue:

(click pics to enlaRGE)

My beloved Dojo in the carport: Moon hangboard, jump rope, running shoes, yoga mat, & ...


Iron Gym "pull-up thingy" (if you're wondering why I don't have it set up on a door frame like it's advertised for, it's out of respect for my grandparent's house which is from the 13th century A.D.) lol

Recently I got two pairs of discount climbing shoes :

$39 bucks. Madrock Maniac (I'm hopeful these'll perform similar to the 5.10 Moccasym)


$34 bucks. Five Ten Zlipper

Note:

My Evolve Es Pontas need to be resoled...the rubber on 'em is still good, but they've both got a small hole- down to fabric- on the top of ea. big toe (if anyone has a recommendation please let me know). On the subject of Evolve, did you notice that you can now customize your shoe on their website!:

http://evolvsports.com/flash_app/index.htm

(for the fashion conscious climber or the climbing girlfriend that wants to be color coordinated it's PRETTY COOL, though not the $145 price tag)

Three of my main sport climbing objectives for this summer are...

"Mr. Big" 5.12a/b

This airy, gymnastic route begins inside a 12meter tall cave. After traversing the entire cave's lip you pull a couple more strenuous overhanging moves before the chains at the top of the cliff band. "Mr. Big" is actually a 5 meter bouldery extension of the route "Giant 5.11c." I flashed "Giant" a couple years back; no single move on the extension is really a problem for me neither...now I just need to put it all together from the ground up. Very fun. I look forward to the encore.

"Chronic" 5.13b

This route is a gem. Arguably the most popular hard sport climb in Washington state, "Chronic" is more than the sum of it's parts. In terms of sheer difficulty, I've been told no single sequence is above v4; the redpoint crux is the stamina due. I've worked the first third of the route (while working its coveted variation- "Californicator/Californication" 5.12d/13a- a route I also plan to climb this summer). Some of "Chronic's" moves I got pretty dialed last year, however, I am not expecting it to be linked easily; the climbing is crimpy, has various lock offs & compression moves, and its steepness is subtlely burly (i.e. you get pumped stoopid w/out realizing it!). The rock quality is excellent, it's got a good history (e.g. Lynn Hill got the FFA on it), and the route's difficulties are matched by it's pure enjoyment factor... last year I caught myself laughing on it as I would fall off!

"Propaganda" 5.12c

The only thing suspect about this line is why I haven't focused more time on it...I must've been brainwashed! The 20meter deceptively vertical line follows a black streak up the wall on a very sustained series of slopey crimps, tension moves, technically demanding & balancy footwork, few shake outs, and a pumpy, heartbreaking, dynamic finish. Proud for the grade.

Y'all know who you are...see you out there soon.

P.S. Props to Jesse, my buddy up in Seattle who just sent "The Practitioner" v11/12 @ Leavenworth, WA!