Pyramid Schemes

 

 

 

                          gym                              outdoor 

new pairs

3D Chess : Curtain Call

 Checkmate ✅

The "curtain closed" 11.04.23 on my longest boulder project to date: Curtain Call 7C . It's taken me nearly one month to process and put to words this accomplishment and its significance personally. Facts: it's not the most impressive line, nor grade (Elon says it’s V7 lol) but this ascent is a milestone for me that's transformational for reasons I'll elaborate.

Living legend Tommy Caldwell took a decade on the Dawn Wall, well… , I’ve put atleast nine (9) years of attempts in on Curtain Call (not exclusive to many other projects of course); While this 5move bloc isn’t what I’d consider my Dawn Wall, it’s definitely been a process. 

Being a weekend warrior performance-oriented rock climber, busy family guy, and full time nightshift ICU RN, it can be difficult to maintain fitness/psyche/healthy perspective on projects. Simply joy and stress relief are important “metrics” as to why I climb. I am still improving (Alhumdullilah) thanks to nemesis boulder problems such as this one that keep giving lessons til learned. 

“Nic You [still] haven't sent Curtain!?” a friend inquired, “no.” Doubts lingered for years on this rig. 

Curtain Call is an outdoor board style climb on faint start holds, strenuous body positions, increasingly small micropinches with faint thumb catches culminating with a 2move sequence to and from a very small (6-8mm ish) R hand crimp to a victory top out. 

Myriad mental and physical personal battles made this boulder feel like a grade V big wall. From fitting my 6’o frame into the “box” of the climb, to fitness regressions, injuries, other life constraints and legitimately being stumped how any beta or method would work for me, I didn’t know if it would ever go for Me til the day I woke up and did it.   

injury before session due to moving log wedged at base of boulder sans work gloves 🤦🏽‍♂️ 

higher percentage “tall person” start beta 

training 

focused

It will be a miracle when I send this.  Innumerable attempts, tantrums, beta edits for being 6’ tall (no “easier” heel hook shelf ), lining up the performative fitness/availability/weather and “landscaping fiascos” (plural) prepping base of climb made this just feel epic to the point of ridiculousness. In the end, I’m thankful it all came together... at 40 yrs young.

The day I sent the conditions were good;  I felt light, energetic, focused, and care free (rare considering sleep deprivation parenting our two year old and working night shift). My family taking nap, I decided to squeeze a session in on projects at NWBRANCH. I went straight to Curtain Call boulder because group were swapping attempts at Long Wall where I usually warm up . 

Pull on holds, mobility work , shoulder engagement, breathe, rehearsal of easier moves, sit, hydrate. Breathe, picture the send with every somatic sensory feedback memory rehearsed. I knew I was sending that day; I entered a surreal flow state many minutes and tries before the ascent. Time became nonexistent sounds of the forest and light memorably exquisite, ambient, glowing, humming with energy. I’ll always fondly recall the setting just then after so many years at that spot. 

With body prepared and mind surrendered, the moment ripens

I pulled on, the wave of each nerve synapse in unison with my breath, laser focus, I executed each move... I screamed latching hold at deadpoint crux, in near disbelief I had linked from the start, and began tearing up as I topped out Curtain Call. I sent it. 

Sending feels good. Sending projects great. Sending long term projects can feel redemptive. The training block over the summer (see earlier blog post) worked ! I don’t feel the need to waste emotional energy comparing myself to other climbers, but I do invest considerable energy comparing renditions of mysel re: training , performance, body attributes, what works when, what doesn’t... why not? Sending Curtain Call feels like redeeming my hard won tickets for a huge prize! 🔥

So, What’s next? 

To keep at the list (note: see post "Getting What's Paid For")... focal the few “pillars” left at NWB:

Prelude to Crimps

Chaos Roof

If You made it this far, thank you for reading 🙏🏽 

With head heart hand,

   .

NM

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