Thursday, April 13

I have appreciation for this article...

Illustation: Claire Eckstrom"...As one moves up the V-scale, the indoor grades become a better representation of difficulty encountered outside. For example, some outdoor V6s with excellent friction might feel equal in difficulty to a few of your indoor V6 projects. This is where the route’s style—crimps, slopers, pinches, compression, etc.—comes into play. If you're a crimping fiend, a line of V6 crimps outside may feel easier than the overhung pinch-fest V6 that’s shut you down in the boulder cave for the past month. And there will occasionally be the outdoor V8 that you send in half the time that you struggled on a gym V7 in your anti-style.

It is rare for gyms to set problems harder than V10 or 11, as most of their clientele can't climb the grade, though outdoor grades currently extend up to V17. If you aren’t currently flashing every problem in your local gym, your time is better spent training than worrying about the day you outclimb the facility.

Don’t let challenging outdoor problems take the fun out of climbing. It takes several sessions to adapt to the texture, holds, and movement of real rock, so go into your first few outdoor bouldering sessions with an open mind. Set a goal of having fun and enjoying nature instead of trying to send your hardest V-grade yet. Soon you might be climbing harder outside than in the gym, and it’s important to remember that there is much more to climbing than pulling plastic in a chalk-covered, pay-per-month facility. "


while you're at it peep this science too:

Tuesday, June 14

Thursday, November 19

photos from

I agree with Ondra, stretching/flexibility is key .

Saturday, September 26

this is gonna happen...

... one day.
(be careful about inquiring, you may just be summoned as a trip/belay partner : )

Saturday, July 18


   last few moves of CalifornicATOR .12d before crux section of Technorigine .12c guarding chains of CalifornicATION
(Little Si,- land of linkups)

Today, I finally sent.
It's been epic...
                           BIBLICAL actually.
Fitness regressions (plural!), wasp stings at the chains, 90 + degree heat, punting like a newB past the last draw kinda epic, but now it's over, and you know what? It feels great!

I intend to "recreate" the send on film along with some other Little Si action with friends so stay tuned!

First 5.13 in two years, but it won't be the last now that the fitness is back! It means a lot being a career working/family man now and still proving to myself that I got what it takes ! Onto bigger projects!!!

Friday, March 20

Pōkō ä ˈPōkō

post-rappel from the anchors of Techno

On Wednesday, March 18th, my friend Andrew and I made it out to Little Si's World Wall 1. 
This was my first trip out there this year, and third (I think) since returning to the Northwest last fall. 
Although no sends were had on this day it was a great day to me... the conditions were pretty good, the crag was silent, I got to witness my friend climbing stronger than I'd ever seen, and I felt a lightness, ease, and playfulness in my own climbing that I'd nearly forgotten is possible.

It was a valuable opportunity for me to take inventory of training needs too. 
Finger strength is coming along good, cruxes/crimps felt easier, feet weren't slipping, but need more campus board, core-work, 4x4s, droplet 3x3s, and meditation.

My plan at Si is same as everyone's : some more linkups/extensions!

... little by little...

Back to training for now.
Good things are on the horizon this season... 



Tuesday, January 27

B  I    S      H    O  P

1.16 - 1.20 in the 2,015th year of our Lord

My wife and I decided to rally down to Bishop during a six day break from work. Needless to say I was very satisfied:

  1. to be headed outdoors so early in the year
  2. pebble wrestling at Bishop again (duH!) ... 1st time in six years!
  3. superb winter free climbing weather (note: global warming is still shitty...particularly for my snow sports brethren~ sorry Mammoth)

TOP1O highlights:

  1. finally found success on both High Plains Drifter and Saigon in the Buttermilks!
  2. stayed at Holiday Inn ...replete with a sauna, hot tub, & swimming pool; which was very nice for recovery
  3. Glo explored some trails and rocks with me at the Happy Boulders
  4. got close(r) on Iron Fly 
  5. purchased the wonderful guidebook for the area (finally)
  6. sent v7 variation of Go Granny Go I didn't know about (thanks guidebook.)
  7. was in town during the excitement of Daniel Woods' historic FA of The Process v15/16... definitely one of the craziest hard blocs in the world
  8. nearly sent Morning Dove White (the beta is figured out clear and concise in my mind for when I make my reunion with that rock)
  9. skin devastation and injuries (yay)
  10. 32 hours of driving! 

Here's some media from the trip...


See y'all out there, 


Tuesday, January 13


To find my limit.

    Get after it and pull that trigger

Friday, February 21

Tuesday, January 28

Happy 2014 !!!

Reflecting on 2013 and looking forward to the year ahead, I thought I'd get "back on the horse" with the blog.  

The completion of my climbing-related goals for 2013 were a mix-bag. I had stated 2013 was for:

Wow. I didn't do any multipitch climbing, no trad climbing, a few (3) trips to the New River Gorge, WV, I flirted with training, didn't onsight much or send any projects ... I've come to the conclusion that I have no business making goals. lol ... well, I did finally manage to do a one-arm pull-up! Oh yeah I tore my medial meniscus in my left knee, get this, traversing ....warming up.

[sigh] dirty thirties are here.

Looking ahead to this year, I am stoked on:
  • advancing my route setting
  • getting outside more
  • remaining injury free (i.e. meditating, praying, yoga, eating better, rest, warming up before I warm up, not doing insane drop knees, shoulder moves, monos or anything else that 16 year old climbers attempt!) 
  • doing smarter/focused training
  • maximizing climbing time
  • working my weaknesses
  • getting back to my strong aerobic base (hello! running, biking, jump rope, swimming!)
As for today:

Minus falling and getting rope burn on my neck that looks in between a hickey and a hyena bite, today was great! Felt strong bouldering in gym today and set three (3) routes !

Blessings and Inspiration your way, 


P.S. More soon... 

Friday, May 24

A favorite ...

Nic Sends Narcissus from FLAPPERfilms on Vimeo.

(footage courtesy of Suradetch)

Thursday, January 17

(footage courtesy of Chase Olson)

Fridge Left V8 @ Leavenworth... I'd tried this problem on and off for six (6) years! Lol... proudest boulder I climbed in 2o12!



Monday, December 31

Happy New Year!

2012 was a pretty awesome year! I redpointed a couple 5.13's, climbed some long-standing projects, worked as head route setter and youth climbing coach at Warehouse Rock Gym, and realized a dream climbing Half Dome (Regular Northwest Face, Grade IV, 23 pitches, 2200', 5.9, C1 team ascent, 2 days) with my friend Andrew Hou.

I'm looking forward to trad climbing, onsight climbing, projecting boulder problems and sport routes, new training routines, multipitch climbing, one-arm pull-ups, and more road trips in 2013!