Standardized Board Tips

• Anchor Hand: When making a big move, focus on squeezing and controlling your anchor hand (the bottom hand) rather than just the hold you're reaching for
• Utilize "cheating" holds (better feet, bump holds) to work on specific parts of a climb
• Experiment with Arm Position: For anchor hands, experiment with pulling in (bent arm) or keeping your arm straight to see what works best for the individual move and your climbing style
• Tweeze: A "tweeze" is when you put both feet on a hold and squeeze it, which helps you push off and pull yourself into the wall, especially on steep climbs 
• Dig and Drive: You need to be able to dig with your feet and drive off them on almost all board climbs
• Wiggle Toe: Wiggling your toe on a hold helps you think about pressing your foot into the hold and ensures it's sticking
• Maintain Pressure: Don't forget about your foot as you start a move; keep pressure on your toe to prevent slips
• 2-5 minutes rest between attempts on limit moves, 3-6 attempts per session per project keeps motivation fresh

sources:  https://youtu.be/Axn-iYn8Z1o?si=s8JRTtJ6e2siqdEO

GALLADAH

 

 

 

cinematography rights: Alexandré Wing 

https://youtube.com/@awvisuals_?si=7XUV5QQeA0sizI4e

breakthrough in the studio

 

Finally connected first crux move on Aloha v10

Great day outdoors. Thank you Alex 👊🏽 

 Failure is not failure 

it’s an index of understanding 

i cursed tore my skin sore status post the frustration of uncertainty when will it go ? how will I know?  readiness cheapened by deservedness (entitlement) traps gift exchange expensive loss less as expectation evaporates ...

         experience

L 

lesson earned once more 

second language no need for translation

confidence born from respect of humility in movement 

F l o w

N1

 

sustained L hand DIP strain :/ on God knows what ,but fired first go of session a fun V8 Sidewinder2000 :)

 

 道

dyno method for crux 2

Quality session today. I managed couple new climbs on TB1 as warm up in gym (ideal when time permits) then drove to Aloha. I felt much better than last session (prior too cold, never felt engaged). I definitely thrive with warmer conditions. Steve and Alek's input helped (i.e L lower extremity engagement/turning knee in & catching L toe hook off start hold in set up). Getting better lift with hip apex timed precise and I think dyno method might be the way to go for crux 2. As for crux 1, holds are bigger and throw is closer than its felt... i can climb this

3.12.25 | 58°F 28% 

.

NM

 

C R E A T I N E. [ It works ]

For a myraid of reasons, I had been reluctant over the years to try creatine. I was aware of it even in high school kids were trying it and I was critically skeptical at best. Pushing into my 40s now, out of a concern for studies about muscle wasting as an indicator of aging and the emphasis that I’ve began to place on strength training I decided to finally pull the trigger and try it. Less than 2months in and I’m thankful I did

Supplementing with 3 to 5 grams of creatine daily has been shown to: 

• Increase muscular strength-endurance & power 
• Accelerate recovery between bouts of intense exercise 
• Promote gains in lean muscle mass
• Improve sports performance involving short- to moderate-duration bursts of high-intensity exertion 
• Enhance cognition, speed of information processing, and memory, especially in times of metabolic stress, sleep deprivation, and with aging.

link:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0068/6751/7493/files/PhysiVantage_Creatine_Users_Guide.pdf?v=1732456256

source: PhysiVantage ™