Tuesday, December 7

Time for getting back into shape!

(my 1st v8 in gym since return from rehab for hamstring tear)

After such a long hiatus from training... it feels good to get back into the swing of things. I've now headed to ET for three lengthy training sessions, focusing my efforts on just lot's of bouldering at all grades.

My upcoming trips are sport climbing- so why boulder? My rationale with all this to start off training is something Jerry Moffat once said, "if the hard moves at the bottom of a route start to feel easy, you're going to be less pumped once you reach the top." Wise stuff. If I want harder routes to become a reality for me (i.e. more 5.13s & 5.14) , I need to be able to execute harder moves, and more of them with a degree of efficiency previously unknown to me. Thus I boulder : ) ... plus its fun (fyi: I am capable of taking bouldering seriously though too lol).

Here are my notes from the last workout on Monday, December 6th:

10 minute traverse warmup
stretched
repeated v8 from last time
finished v8 w/ tough start
"Dots" v8 in 10 goes
sent one new v7, two v6s, two v5s, four v4s, & two v3s
Projected tricky v6, cool v9, and a very doable v10
... psyched for wednesday


Thursday, December 2

I'm baaaaaaaaack : )

After confirming that I had a unilateral bicep femoralis muscle tear in my right leg earlier this fall (I had been having leg pain @ varying intensities since April after a pickup basketball game) I made the difficult yet necessary decision to stop ALL physical activity to let it heal properly. The injury was nagging and painful enough, but moreso was having to sacrifice a precious outdoor fall climbing season (thanks everyone who've kept great blogs for me to read : ) and having to freeze my gym membership (I appreciate Earthtrek's staff looking out for me with that).




Well, I am happy to report that, after 1.5 months, I am back! I've been slowly stretching, jogging, bike-riding, and now climbing (first time on Wednesday) pain free! This is all without my 800 mg Ibueprofen too lol.

First time back in gym was mainly just light traverse work and some bouldering (up to v7), with some yoga and jump rope thrown in too. I have confirmed plans to spend my spring break (march 12-20) at Smith Rocks (everyone's invited) so that's what I'm gonna start training for.

More soon.

God bless everyone.

NM