I'm sceptical of that article. I find it very hard to believe that a carabiner will break under 700 pounds of pressure (which is a relatively tiny force). I did the test, and although the carabiner moves from its major axis point, as soon as it is weighted, as it would be in a fall, it moves straight back.
It is a very minor point that I don't think would be worth switching your draws, especially as Matt Samet points out it is important to be able to easily visualize which direction they are facing. I think if I switched them, it would cause me to backclip more since I've always had my biners facing opposite direction.
Important article. I watched a guy take a fall in J-tree, cross-load his top biner on the gate joining, just as the article warns, and snap it. He decked and broke his ankle.
2 comments:
I'm sceptical of that article. I find it very hard to believe that a carabiner will break under 700 pounds of pressure (which is a relatively tiny force). I did the test, and although the carabiner moves from its major axis point, as soon as it is weighted, as it would be in a fall, it moves straight back.
It is a very minor point that I don't think would be worth switching your draws, especially as Matt Samet points out it is important to be able to easily visualize which direction they are facing. I think if I switched them, it would cause me to backclip more since I've always had my biners facing opposite direction.
Important article. I watched a guy take a fall in J-tree, cross-load his top biner on the gate joining, just as the article warns, and snap it. He decked and broke his ankle.
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