claw grip training

 

• 20mm ish edge (comfortable, not max effort)

• Start hanging and pull with the fingertips, imagining “scratching the edge downwards.”
• Hold 5–10s.
• Rest 40–60s.
• 4–6 reps x 3–4 sets.

Hamish Fingertip Pulls” on a Plate or Doorframe

He sometimes practices this between reps while resting:

• Touch a surface with fingertips.
• Apply downward force JUST with DIP joint.
• The forearm flexors near the wrist and the FDP belly should activate strongly.

3–5 second micro-reps

8–12 reps

Very low load—this is activation, not strength work.

• Never overload the DIP with max-weight hangs.
  This is a coordination + recruitment pattern, not a “max strength” protocol.
• Don’t allow DIP hyperextension.
  If the finger collapses backward → stop.

Many climbers (including Aidan and Hamish) combine both:

High-angle crimp

+

Active DIP claw

The strongest, most controlled crimp position for tiny holds.

This produces:

• maximal contact security
• maximal force through the deep flexor (FDP)
• better load distribution along the tendon
• fewer pulley tweaky positions vs. collapsed DIP
• more “precision bite” on micro edges

But high-angle ≠ claw unless the DIP is actively doing work.

🔍 

Think of It Like This

High-angle crimp

= What the middle joint is doing

(PIP flexion)

Claw

= What the fingertip is doing

(DIP flexion)

You can have:

• High-angle + DIP collapsed → classic crimping, risky
• High-angle + DIP clawed → elite crimping, strongest
• Mid-angle + DIP clawed → Hamish semi-crimp claw
• Low-angle + DIP clawed → precision dragging / small holds

⚠️ WHY THE DISTINCTION MATTERS

If you train only 

high angle

:

• Great for PIP strength
• But DIP may collapse → transfers stress to A2/A3
• Less precise hold engagement

If you train 

claw DIP activation

:

• Builds control and force transmission from fingertip
• Protects pulleys by distributing load
• Works across multiple grip angles (not just high-angle)

Best results come from combining both, not confusing them.

🧗‍♂️ 

Elite Examples

Hamish McArthur

Claw = recruitment + precision → DIP control

Aidan Roberts

High-angle = powerful crimping

Often adds DIP flexion, but doesn’t call it “claw grip”

Daniel Woods

High-angle half crimp often without full crimp

Less explicit focus on DIP activation

Still extremely strong because of raw PIP/A2 strength

Source: Chat GPT, The Struggle Podcast