a COOL trip to Leavenworth!

Write up to come... for now here are a couple pics from Rita, Jimmy, Lisa, and I's trip on Sunday.

Finger strength, body weight ratio, and confidence. God speed.

As Far West As You Gotta Go!

My [controversial] new Fayetteville, West Virginia sticker. DISCLAIMER: All my friends out west, please don't send me hate mail... I'm still a LEFTY fo LIFE! ! lol


a sample of the fine deep water soloing @ Summersville Lake.

Californicator

On Tuesday, July 14th I redpointed my hardest sport climb to date: Californicator 5.12.d/7c.

(click to enLARGE)

It's taken me a lil while to process, but I know now that
I can climb harder. On my first go of the day, I climbed sloppily, distractedly, and hurriedly, dry firing off a hold after just four clips. When I fell, I hung there on the rope kinda pissed- I felt like I was fighting the rock and the moves- my head just wasn't in it- and to make matters worse I tore the skin off my right hand pretty good gushing blood. Time to come down I realized. "Dirt me," I asked. BREATHE.

On redpoint, my second go of the day, I didn't feel strong, I didn't feel necessarily confident, but I gave my commitment, my patience, and my vulnerability to every hand and foot placement. When I linked to the typewriter hold, I was suprised, but I figured a fall was inevitable, I decided to hold on and see how far I could go. Taking a deep breath, feeling my heart beating, and then exhaling, I commited to my new beta for the last crux seperating me from the huge rest jug and last 3 bolts of 5.11- to the anchors. I stuck it! Hanging, pumped stupid at the rest jug, I was dazed at having eclipsed my previous high point- I suddenly felt my mind crashing into a frenzy as to what to do next. "COME ON NICK! You GOT this bro!" Micah yells up to me. I feel confident with Dom on belay, so I fire into the final requisite 5.11 sequences, trying to stay on my feet, breathe, (and pray)... to be frank with y'all even the very LAST move to the finishing jug, I didn't think I was gonna send... but I did! I threw myself sillily off the wall laughing. Such a RADICAL route and day of rock climbing.

(NOTE: props to Micah for sending this same day Slug Lover 5.12c/7b+ second go !)

So what's next?

I have my eye on a couple of awesome rock climbs, but my heart is set on just one.

My project now is Chronic 5.13b/8a. One of my dream routes of Washington State for years, Chronic has two easier variations that share its first seven bolts' worth of climbing:
Californicator (the route I just sent) & Californication 5.13a/7c+ (Californicator extension into Technoriginee 5.12c/7b+).

Although it's naive of me to think that I've got Chronic "half done", I do have a honed instinct now of what climbing a route of this caliber will demand of me.

Bad Forecast, GREAT Weather in Leavenworth! Part II

NOTICE: Okay, sorry people for the MASS-procrastination on this post, I know how much each and everyone of you were holding their breaths... lol.

(click on any pic to enLARGE)

(Top to bottom)"30% chance of showers w/ overcast skies", Whitey slam dunking a move, Meg & nice(um) scenery

A couple weekends ago, Meg, Jeremy, Whitey, and I got out for the day to LEAVENWORTH- our own little Bavarian village and bouldering mecca right here in Washington state. It was my first time back here since summer '08 with Micah.

We started out the day bombing down I-5 in a sweet new Volvo luxury sport wagon supplied by Meg. We made good time all the way to Leavenworth (besides almost hitting a self-entitled flock of geese crossing Hwy 18!).

After the requisite pit-stop at Safeway (were I picked up a BOMB sandwich for $5 bucks), we decided to start the day out at Mad Meadows; only after getting turned around trying to find the Clamshell area.

(Top to bottom)$1.00 per lb/foot of sandwich!, Meg's approach : ), me getting my ass SPANKED on some v5 (I fell)

After bouldering at Mad Meadows, we finally did find the Clamshell area, and checked out Forestland too.

It was great to sunbathe in weather WAY better than forecasted, talk, laugh, and boulder all together.

One thing I realized on this day trip, was I enjoy bouldering a lot more NOT having a structured tick-list of objectives for the day. It's nice to preserve the spontaniety and goofiness of a day unstructured.

(Jeremy on a BOMBER rest hold... : )

Highlights for me:

Occum's Razor v5 ( It was cool to all session this superb boulder problem!)

Pentaphobia v5 (Meg was IMPRESSIVE on this hard, crimpy testpiece for the grade)

The Octopus v7 (My first outdoor v7 of the year!)

The Real Thing v4 (hard but SO good to repeat...good way to end the day for me)

The Pocket v4- (not that hard, but super bad ass)

The Cube v1+ (highball perfection)

One Summer v5 (Whitey, Jeremy, and I all stuck the big move crux to unlock the line!)

To conclude, here is a video of Jeremy on a silky smooth ascent of The Pocket v4:

Bad Forecast, GREAT Weather in Leavenworth!

Here's a short clip preview (write-up on the way)...

Me on a superb & stout v3 named Crimp, Crimp, Slap, Throw!

A Great Week!!

This past week of summer has been the essence of what I've been looking forward to all school year. I got outdoors climbing three times this week... all three times with my good friend Dom.

Wednesday, it was great to participate once again (after a two year hiatus) in the great tradition of Wednesday Night Climb at Off's Wall in Tenino. The intimate local community vibe, supportive atmosphere, and jokes, not to mention the technical (at times heady) climbing make it a great place to crag!

(click on any pic to enLARGE)

Doug getting it done on an area classic @ Off's Wall in Tenino

Dom nearing the chains of "Confucious" 5.11b

Highlights @ Off's Wall in Tenino:

• reuniting with Ed, Duke, Doug, and Off again
• my onsight lead of "Confucious" 5.11b (Off says it may be the first onsight of the route)
• my flash of a really cool 5.10+ called "Gloater" which includes, vertical, slab, and (sort-of) dihedral climbing in a single pitch with some cool mantels.

Footage of Dom nearing the chains on "Confucious" 5.11b

STOP THE PRESS!

Yesterday (6/17/09) @ the Quarry, Jimmy made the historic 3rd ascent of Legends 5.12c!! I have tried it multiple times on TR and can attest to how hard it is! Excellent send Jimmy. Also Dom and I redpointed Futility Bill 5.11d and Doug sent Squirt Theory 5.10d.

It's really been cool reconnecting with the social scene in Olympia again. There have been alot of potlucks, BBQs, game nights (Thanks to Erica!), and just righteous conversation and energy being shared by all. My favorite game lately is called Settlers of Cataan (shown below)

I'm not even gonna begin to try and type instructions/strategy for this game here.

...oh yeah playing Boggle was DOPE too (even though I sucked @ it)!

Friday Dom, Laura, and I decided to go cragging at Exit 38. We initally had planned to hike all the way to Bob's Area (approx. 1 hr approach), however we found enough to do just at Amazonia and Actual Cave.

Dom and Laura en route to Amazonia

FYI: Amazonia has a really good warmup 5.10a to the left... everything's moderate from 5.9-5.11a so it's a good spot for that (some routes are chossy though).


Laura dismantling the crux moves of an unkown 5.11a

When we moved over to Actual Cave I FINALLY managed to redpoint Mr. Big 5.12a and surprised myself by nabbing second go a successful lead of the improbable-looking roof Cyanide 5.12b! I definitely feel stronger than last time I was here. Both routes climb waaaay better than they look...so next time you're walking by Actual cave, on your way to Bob's Area, check IT!

Dom on his onsight lead of Mr. Big 5.12a (sick)

Saturday Dom and I got out with Scott to BOTH exit 32 and 38! for a great day of climbing . We started the day @ Little Si and then made our way to the Gunshow sector of Far Side @ exit 38. Scott started the day off well with a rad TR onsight of a cool 5.9 slab @ Repo Wall, and then I lead Mambo Jambo 5.10b on all-gear for the first time, which I felt good about. I had been inspired after Dom's skip-the-bolts ascent.

Scott and I rock'n @ Repo Crag! (video footage of Mambo Jambo on the way)

After Repo Wall we moved on to World Wall I (home of many trials, tribulations, epics, and victories). Dom had come really close to sending PC7 5.12d last time he was here, so he went for the redpoint today... the way he was climbing the route I KNEW he was gonna send until... he got to a key upper crux hold that had been broken between when he was on it and now. No hard feelings, but it was a definite dissappointment for all of us. Here is a (poor) video clip of Dom on it:

Dom & PC7 ...to be continued.

Feeling inspired nontheless after Dom's bummer redpoint burn, I decided to have a go on a project of my own- Bust the Rhythm 5.12c. I felt pretty dialed on the easier 5.10 climbing and then went into the first crux perfectly...wheew, I collected my breath and composure, and then proceeded to fire the cruxy stemming moves in the hanging dihedral and clipped the anchor. I look forward to gaining more experience and efficiency on climbs with stemming/dihedral situations...there is definitely a feng shui to it.

From Little Si, we rocketed up I-90 for our last stop of the trip: The Gunshow. Scott and I had never been here (one time we looked for it, but didn't hike far enough) so Dom was a gracious guide. It's a great area that I definitely would like to return to sometime. The highlight here was onsighting one of the best long slab climbs around, with a title fitting for the conclusion of this blog entry: Endless Bliss

The COST of being a climber.

(click to enLARGE)
I estimate that I spend somwhere in the range of 280 US Dollars each year on climbing equipment (i.e. new rope, gear, shoes/resoles) plus maybe $500.00 each year on climbing trips. Total, less than a grand- that's it (right now anyways!). For something that cost less than 10% of most people's annual salary (e.g. tithing @ Church), climbing's role and value in our lives I'd estimate to be of MUCH higher percentage than that. Looking at it that way the price is not bad!

I find the demanding cost(s) of climbing isn't money, but the sacrifices we make...
for the trips to happen,
for the lifestyle to be LIVED,
for our body's fitness to be sustained at a level up to our potential,
for our relationships with one another to thrive,
for waiting out crappy weather!

The COST?... money is measureable- that isn't it. The cost of being a climber is our more personal sacrifices made to make experiences happen.
Let's face it...
memories, dream destinations, and climbing projects
...priceless.

NM

Good session today (5.2.09)

Lead climbed some steep stuff w/ Kawai (including a .12a onsight); bouldered for the rest of the time with a great crew, including Sasha Digulian ...she's a sponsored young climbing talent who first broke onto the climbing scene sending a v10 @ 13 y/o, and more recently 5.13c @ 16 y/o)

The video footage is of a burly v6 that I couldn't figure out 'til I figured out the knee bar (sans knee pad...haha).

NM

Two more Exams to go til SUMMER 2009 !!!

It goes without saying that I am psyK'd for the summer. Most noteably I am looking forward to seeing everyone in Washington state that I've sacrificed spending time with lately to be here in DC in nursing school. I am also VERY pleased with the prospect of climbing lot's, enjoying good living with some new friends, $aving lot'$, and just chill'n, hopefully. Till then... studies and training continue:

(click pics to enlaRGE)

My beloved Dojo in the carport: Moon hangboard, jump rope, running shoes, yoga mat, & ...


Iron Gym "pull-up thingy" (if you're wondering why I don't have it set up on a door frame like it's advertised for, it's out of respect for my grandparent's house which is from the 13th century A.D.) lol

Recently I got two pairs of discount climbing shoes :

$39 bucks. Madrock Maniac (I'm hopeful these'll perform similar to the 5.10 Moccasym)


$34 bucks. Five Ten Zlipper

Note:

My Evolve Es Pontas need to be resoled...the rubber on 'em is still good, but they've both got a small hole- down to fabric- on the top of ea. big toe (if anyone has a recommendation please let me know). On the subject of Evolve, did you notice that you can now customize your shoe on their website!:

http://evolvsports.com/flash_app/index.htm

(for the fashion conscious climber or the climbing girlfriend that wants to be color coordinated it's PRETTY COOL, though not the $145 price tag)

Three of my main sport climbing objectives for this summer are...

"Mr. Big" 5.12a/b

This airy, gymnastic route begins inside a 12meter tall cave. After traversing the entire cave's lip you pull a couple more strenuous overhanging moves before the chains at the top of the cliff band. "Mr. Big" is actually a 5 meter bouldery extension of the route "Giant 5.11c." I flashed "Giant" a couple years back; no single move on the extension is really a problem for me neither...now I just need to put it all together from the ground up. Very fun. I look forward to the encore.

"Chronic" 5.13b

This route is a gem. Arguably the most popular hard sport climb in Washington state, "Chronic" is more than the sum of it's parts. In terms of sheer difficulty, I've been told no single sequence is above v4; the redpoint crux is the stamina due. I've worked the first third of the route (while working its coveted variation- "Californicator/Californication" 5.12d/13a- a route I also plan to climb this summer). Some of "Chronic's" moves I got pretty dialed last year, however, I am not expecting it to be linked easily; the climbing is crimpy, has various lock offs & compression moves, and its steepness is subtlely burly (i.e. you get pumped stoopid w/out realizing it!). The rock quality is excellent, it's got a good history (e.g. Lynn Hill got the FFA on it), and the route's difficulties are matched by it's pure enjoyment factor... last year I caught myself laughing on it as I would fall off!

"Propaganda" 5.12c

The only thing suspect about this line is why I haven't focused more time on it...I must've been brainwashed! The 20meter deceptively vertical line follows a black streak up the wall on a very sustained series of slopey crimps, tension moves, technically demanding & balancy footwork, few shake outs, and a pumpy, heartbreaking, dynamic finish. Proud for the grade.

Y'all know who you are...see you out there soon.

P.S. Props to Jesse, my buddy up in Seattle who just sent "The Practitioner" v11/12 @ Leavenworth, WA!

4.4.09 session @ EarthTreks

Took the redline metro to Rockville, MD today for a solo sesh...I was envisioning tUning out to my iPod and just having some zen time.
However, the day @ the gym turned into a cool mix of productive bouldering with some folks and a lil toprope route climbing thrown in with this cool kid I met there named Eduardo (from Spain...he's actually one of the 34 Spaniard citizens who are not professional climbers!)

On the boulder's the "highlights" were:
I flashed a soft v7 that would've been a v5 outside.
I sent 4th go a LEGIT v8 that had a heinous right hand bump to a crimp at full extension + dyno finish.
A 1st-go repeat of a cool v7 (see video footage below of a past attempt)

It was a bummer... a young lady in the gym broke her ankle off a boulder problem today...she missed the mat ):
...
I managed a [desperate] roof v6 @ the end of the session too...proud send.

On the toprope routes (Eduardo isn't certified for lead climbing):
I warmed up on a flash of a really neat, long, sustained, just-past-vertical .11a
I sent 2nd go a .12c/d that felt really just like a two-move v3 and a two meter v4 boulder problem, w/ the rest feeling like .10a climbing; very good stEEP climbing up the "wave" upper headwall section...good for the ego fo sho : )

I look forward to climbing more often during the summer.

NM

P.S. Jimmy and Lisa, the Chulich Siblings, aka "Children of the GYM" aka, "Teen-Grade chasers", aka "the Playa n Diva of WRG"(sorry Dom 'n Laura) have been enjoying the God-given gifts of their anti-gravity genetics! Okay, sorry. I'm a little too psyKed. But hey...

Lisa just sent her first 5.12a ON LEAD (nice one girl!)
+
Jimmy's well on his way to making Micah, Dom, and I jealous this year with his meteroic rise on the ropes ...in less than a month: Chain Reaction .12c, three .12a onsights, .12a,c, d (his 1st 7c route) in a day! WOW. Good job.

Pro Tips

As a climber, I often look for training media to help me improve my game. I found a great series of climbing video shorts (from the former Climbxmedia) that highlight tactics/training strategies used by the pros. Enjoy + send all your projects for 2009!

NM