Rough approximation of Gerbil Killer 5.13a
(note: two variations for the start- I intend to accomplish both)
Wednesday, August 29th I found success on one of my hardest graded sport climbs to date: Gerbil Killer. This is my 3rd 5.13- redpoint; one each the last 3 consecutive years.
I'd felt close on this route and Crawling from the Wreckage at Bob's Area but was unsure if success would come on either prior to leaving for California. I'm very happy to have this send under my belt before leaving for Yosemite next week!
The first go of the day I felt strong... I confidently floated through the first cruxes and soon found myself staring down the "Psycho" crux sequence guarding the chains. I executed sloppily, was overthinking and overgripping as the pump kicked in and finally fell two moves from the victory rail. I dangled limp in the air for a moment, then grasped the rock and sped through the sequence to the chains in frustration. Although I one-hung it, I felt the sting of disappointment from unmet potential ... I knew my fitness and beta for this route were complete, all that was missing was for me to give a complete effort.
The second time, I climbed "to get my gear back" - no expectations. I really thought that my first go was my best I could manage for the day so I resigned myself from the hope of a redpoint... I just climbed. Struggling and breathing hard I made it to the final rest... Tim reminded me to rest longer than I think I needed. I heard people yelling up to me encouragements, I counted my breathing (inhale for 2, exhale for 4), my eyes raced alternating foothold stances while my mind raced with thoughts and then finally it all stopped...complete silence; my heartrate slowed, my breathing relaxed, I was fully recovered, I was ready... setting off, mind calm, body responsive, and senses attentive, I grabbed the last holds of the final crux, and roared for all I was worth as I reached... falling....my fingers securely into the victory hold, just as gravity pulled at me once again, this time too late.
note: my beta for "Psycho crux" involves: 1. hitting the sidepull with my right hand 2. gastoning left 3. tacking right foot on small foothold 4. placing left on rail near last draw 5. standing up to left small handhold 6. bumping right hand to second higher sidepull 7. getting left foot onto higher foothold & finally 8. bumping left hand to catch the corner of the finger jug/pod that marks the beginning of the victory rail
P.S. Shout out to my brother Oni who came along with us ... rock climbing outside for the very first time!
Blessings †
NM
