Third V10 on TB1

 

 

“Fall Season” 2025

Well, …I got outside once. The reality is setting in that going outside climbing is not feasible given how close we are as a family to arrival of our son Gabriel; mixture of strong big feelings fasho. Outdoor climbing puts me on average a minimum of 1 hr away response time is rationale. Giving thanks for fitness level at present, not being limited by injury at least, and most of all for the blessing of our healthy happy growing family!

The rock will be there.

Til then , 

 

 

Beast maker 2000 ™ middle edge PR

 

 RPE 8 

2o25 faLL

Silent But Deadly 7B+/7C 

Aurora 7A+

Aloha Sit 8A

beat 8a.nu 

pr of 8k pts 

(2 V9s, 3 V8s, 5 V7s)

Boss Hog 7C+

Moby Dick 7C+

Prelude to Crimps 7C+

Chaos Roof 7C R

Pineapple Express 7C R

min 1 R block

Blackbird 7B

Swordless Samuari 7B

Honey Crisp 7A+ R

Adventure Time 7A+

Purple People Eaters 7A

Midnight Sun 7C+

explore new area

Teen Wolf 7B+

The General 7B+

Truck Driver Right 7C

Blue Crab 6C+

Next Gen Sit 7B

Pedal 7C+

House of Cards 7C+ R

 

Warm Up Sequelae

Mobility → gentle fluidity of movement; synovial fluid to joints, ROM, "greasing the gears"

Momentum → raising HR/temperature, easy movement/big holds, warm muscles

Fingers → recruitment process, gradual loading from feet on floor to jugs to crimps

Power →fast twitch neuromuscular potentiation explosive coordination, "wired firing together"

 
Don't Always Try to Perform:

Have a purpose for each session that isn't always about beating your personal best. Sometimes training through fatigue or focusing on specific goals is productive.

Arcing and Low Aerobic Work:

Incorporate easy climbing (arcing) to build aerobic endurance, which helps with recovery on holds and between attempts, especially important for sport climbing.

Get the Little Things Right:

Pay attention to hydration, chalk type, and appropriate clothing layers to improve comfort and performance.

Body Tension:

Focus on driving through your feet and maintaining body tension, not just core strength, to improve efficiency and control near your limit.

Track Your Progress:

Keep a training log or diary to monitor long-term progress, which helps maintain confidence and see improvements beyond short-term fluctuations.\

Train the Boring Things:

Don't neglect shoulder stability and flexibility, as these can make a big difference in climbing performance and injury prevention.

Break Down Bigger Goals:

Divide big goals into smaller, manageable chunks to stay motivated and track progress more easily.

Maintain Training During Performance Phases:

Continue some training during peak climbing seasons to avoid burnout and maintain top-end fitness.

Go to the Wall with a Plan:

Have a clear goal or structure for each session to stay focused and motivated, whether it's trying a set number of problems or focusing on project attempts.

Climb Different Styles:

Climbing a variety of styles and routes helps you learn new techniques, balance your strengths and weaknesses, and improve longevity as a climber.

source: lattice ™ , jen wood

 

 

 

 

 

exercises for P O W E R

source: Charlie Schreiber, CSCS

Standardized Board Tips

• Anchor Hand: When making a big move, focus on squeezing and controlling your anchor hand (the bottom hand) rather than just the hold you're reaching for
• Utilize "cheating" holds (better feet, bump holds) to work on specific parts of a climb
• Experiment with Arm Position: For anchor hands, experiment with pulling in (bent arm) or keeping your arm straight to see what works best for the individual move and your climbing style
• Tweeze: A "tweeze" is when you put both feet on a hold and squeeze it, which helps you push off and pull yourself into the wall, especially on steep climbs 
• Dig and Drive: You need to be able to dig with your feet and drive off them on almost all board climbs
• Wiggle Toe: Wiggling your toe on a hold helps you think about pressing your foot into the hold and ensures it's sticking
• Maintain Pressure: Don't forget about your foot as you start a move; keep pressure on your toe to prevent slips
• 2-5 minutes rest between attempts on limit moves, 3-6 attempts per session per project keeps motivation fresh

sources:  https://youtu.be/Axn-iYn8Z1o?si=s8JRTtJ6e2siqdEO

GALLADAH

 

 

 

cinematography rights: Alexandré Wing 

https://youtube.com/@awvisuals_?si=7XUV5QQeA0sizI4e

breakthrough in the studio

 

Finally connected first crux move on Aloha v10

Great day outdoors. Thank you Alex 👊🏽 

 Failure is not failure 

it’s an index of understanding 

i cursed tore my skin sore status post the frustration of uncertainty when will it go ? how will I know?  readiness cheapened by deservedness (entitlement) traps gift exchange expensive loss less as expectation evaporates ...

         experience

L 

lesson earned once more 

second language no need for translation

confidence born from respect of humility in movement 

F l o w

N1

 

sustained L hand DIP strain :/ on God knows what ,but fired first go of session a fun V8 Sidewinder2000 :)

 

 道

dyno method for crux 2

Quality session today. I managed couple new climbs on TB1 as warm up in gym (ideal when time permits) then drove to Aloha. I felt much better than last session (prior too cold, never felt engaged). I definitely thrive with warmer conditions. Steve and Alek's input helped (i.e L lower extremity engagement/turning knee in & catching L toe hook off start hold in set up). Getting better lift with hip apex timed precise and I think dyno method might be the way to go for crux 2. As for crux 1, holds are bigger and throw is closer than its felt... i can climb this

3.12.25 | 58°F 28% 

.

NM

 

C R E A T I N E. [ It works ]

For a myraid of reasons, I had been reluctant over the years to try creatine. I was aware of it even in high school kids were trying it and I was critically skeptical at best. Pushing into my 40s now, out of a concern for studies about muscle wasting as an indicator of aging and the emphasis that I’ve began to place on strength training I decided to finally pull the trigger and try it. Less than 2months in and I’m thankful I did

Supplementing with 3 to 5 grams of creatine daily has been shown to: 

• Increase muscular strength-endurance & power 
• Accelerate recovery between bouts of intense exercise 
• Promote gains in lean muscle mass
• Improve sports performance involving short- to moderate-duration bursts of high-intensity exertion 
• Enhance cognition, speed of information processing, and memory, especially in times of metabolic stress, sleep deprivation, and with aging.

link:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0068/6751/7493/files/PhysiVantage_Creatine_Users_Guide.pdf?v=1732456256

source: PhysiVantage ™ 

Remember your Campus sessions

electrolyte fundamentals

 

source: primalhydration ™ 

https://lloydspharmacy.ie/blogs/vitamins-supplements/what-minerals-do-our-bodies-need-and-why

optimal nutrition performance windows

30-60 minutes before you climb, eat foods that contain quick digesting carbohydrates. Foods like:

1 oz. pretzels 

1 mini-bagel

1 piece of fruit—apples, bananas, oranges 

 (banana = 30min s/p peak energy)

¼ c dried fruit

8 oz. sports drink 

2 sheets graham crackers

8 oz. chocolate milk

1 packet sports gels (like Gu) 

1 packet sports gummies and chews        

 

Two to four hours before you climb, your body has some time to digest food. This means you can add a little protein, fat, and fiber, such as:

Peanut butter and jelly sandwich with chocolate milk or protein shake

Oatmeal with milk or almond milk, bananas, and walnuts

Tuna wrap with cheese and a side of fruit and yogurt

Fruit smoothie and a protein bar

Trail mix and an apple

Nut butter pouches

String cheese

Jerky

Keep in mind, aim for hydration (e.g. water + electrolytes + splash of tart cherry juice), branch chain amino acids, and complex carbohydrates within 30min-60min post workout to begin recovery/repair/rebuild process. A full meal for individual weighing 70 kilograms (154 pounds), the maximum amount of protein that can be effectively utilized for muscle protein synthesis per meal would be around 17.5 to 28 grams of protein. 0.25g/kg-0.4g/kg bodyweight ; aim for 1.6 to 2.2 g/kg (e.g. 112-154g) daily total for those engaged in regular resistance training

source: Outside ™ 

The “better” I get…the less I’m sure

 

 where hips go … body follows

Acceptance : Commitment

 

 My primary focus right now is on taking care of my body and pushing the needle where i can

 

This is the level I feel at “V9c”  … to employ a different spin on the insignia designating a classic of the Tension Board. I feel good about where I’m starting 2025. 

To reach through V9+ to double digits, I need a plan; something a bit perplexing given the sea of options, varying veracities of data, and an ever more minuscule chunk of the 168 hrs in a week to deal. 4% to be exact…I’ve calculated. 

With training time of 6hrs per week as a constant what goals and requisite plan can I make happen ?… time to imagine