Tuesday, December 26
Saturday, December 23
Tuesday, December 5
3D Chess : Curtain Call
The "curtain closed" 11.04.23 on my longest boulder project to date: Curtain Call 7C . It's taken me nearly one month to process and put to words this accomplishment and its significance personally. Facts: it's not the most impressive line, nor grade (Elon says it’s V7 lol) but this ascent is a milestone for me that's transformational for reasons I'll elaborate.
Living legend Tommy Caldwell took a decade on the Dawn Wall, well… , I’ve put atleast nine (9) years of attempts in on Curtain Call (not exclusive to many other projects of course); While this 5move bloc isn’t what I’d consider my Dawn Wall, it’s definitely been a process.
Being a weekend warrior performance-oriented rock climber, busy family guy, and full time nightshift ICU RN, it can be difficult to maintain fitness/psyche/healthy perspective on projects. Simply joy and stress relief are important “metrics” as to why I climb. I am still improving (Alhumdullilah) thanks to nemesis boulder problems such as this one that keep giving lessons til learned.
“Nic You [still] haven't sent Curtain!?” a friend inquired, “no.” Doubts lingered for years on this rig.
Curtain Call is an outdoor board style climb on faint start holds, strenuous body positions, increasingly small micropinches with faint thumb catches culminating with a 2move sequence to and from a very small (6-8mm ish) R hand crimp to a victory top out.
Myriad mental and physical personal battles made this boulder feel like a grade V big wall. From fitting my 6’o frame into the “box” of the climb, to fitness regressions, injuries, other life constraints and legitimately being stumped how any beta or method would work for me, I didn’t know if it would ever go for Me til the day I woke up and did it.
It will be a miracle when I send this. Innumerable attempts, tantrums, beta edits for being 6’ tall (no “easier” heel hook shelf ), lining up the performative fitness/availability/weather and “landscaping fiascos” (plural) prepping base of climb made this just feel epic to the point of ridiculousness. In the end, I’m thankful it all came together... at 40 yrs young.
The day I sent the conditions were good; I felt light, energetic, focused, and care free (rare considering sleep deprivation parenting our two year old and working night shift). My family taking nap, I decided to squeeze a session in on projects at NWBRANCH. I went straight to Curtain Call boulder because group were swapping attempts at Long Wall where I usually warm up .
Pull on holds, mobility work , shoulder engagement, breathe, rehearsal of easier moves, sit, hydrate. Breathe, picture the send with every somatic sensory feedback memory rehearsed. I knew I was sending that day; I entered a surreal flow state many minutes and tries before the ascent. Time became nonexistent sounds of the forest and light memorably exquisite, ambient, glowing, humming with energy. I’ll always fondly recall the setting just then after so many years at that spot.
With body prepared and mind surrendered, the moment ripens
So, What’s next?
Prelude to Crimps
Chaos Roof
If You made it this far, thank you for reading ๐๐ฝ
With head heart hand,
.
NM
°
Sunday, October 22
Thursday, October 5
Just What was Needed
Thankful, in wake of other life stressors to do some exploring of new zone for this pebble wrestler… Morgan Run NEA
blessings
.
NM
Friday, September 22
Wednesday, September 6
“Silencing my doubts and flipping the switch” Katie Lamb
Two (2) helpful methods for grading boulders:
1. “spot on”
does it still make sense even if adding or subtracting a single grade ?
2. “Max’s formula”
(x+y) + 2
2
(e.g. even though I haven’t yet climbed DErT I’ll grade it V9… V8 into a long V6)
NM
Sunday, August 20
Getting What’s Paid For
Wednesday, August 16
Summer '23 ๐ฅ Power Phase 2 Week 2
Monday 8/14: still struggling with 1-4-7 off L, sent purple comp climb 7C on mega roll!, half crimp feeling stronger ~can hang 6mm without thumb now, 2 x80lbs pull up nearing chest level now
"Progress can manifest in grades, but grades aren't best indicator of progress"
"With complex boulder problems it can be hard to nail down why I failed"
"distill first weakest links; find the pieces of puzzle missing"
"in order of complexity:
hangboards and blocks, then campus board, the next most complicated thing is Tension board, then indoor gym sets, ...keep layering complexity until you finally climb the rock."
from Testpiece Podcast feat. Will Anglin
.
Thursday, August 10
Thursday, July 13
Deload Week
Feeling good with gains achieved after power phase. Last session repeated some benchmarks and have good data for pushing PRs next week when Summer ‘23 training block 2 begins
Saturday, June 3
'23 Summer Periodization Schedule
Heading into the hotter humid months locally and recovering from some scar tissue buildup in L ankle, this is the perfect time to get back to the basics: gym training, goal setting for Fall outdoors, micro/meso periodization optimization, reframing of pressure/passion ... as Son says to 'live it perfectly'
๐ชSTRENGTH (3) three weeks
๐ฅPOWER (2) two weeks
⏾ deload week
๐ชSTRENGTH (3) three weeks
๐ฅPOWER (2) two weeks
๐POWER ENDURANCE (2) weeks
Goals this Fall are to send 5.14 sport, a particular 13- trad line, & several double digit boulders
Sincerely,
now 40 Year Old Me : )
Wednesday, May 24
a successful failure
“Dirty Ernie Wall” …an unassuming wall at NWBranch still harbors for me a couple elusive climbs. One of them I’ve dubbed DErT (or “Dirty Ernie Traverse”).
I have every sequence mastered down to chronology of foot placements/hip adjustments, the hand holds feel bigger than ever I’m breathing well, I feel in control of each movement…until I don’t and then fall …every time thus far.
For a while I considered it might be easier than I'd thought, but now I’m convinced it warrants double digits at V10. I’m now able to do V9 section 3-5 times in a session but exiting this series of burly moves and linking into the long finale (feels somewhere between 6C to 7A+ on any given day) isn’t as doable for me as I’d forecasted.
I’ve reliably been doing a one on one off schedule for the past few weeks with steady progress, one regression (see last post), & impressively good weather/conditions. There have been a few very close goes but no bueno on the send. Although my confidence remains that I’ll do this climb, I need a break…physically, emotionally (as does my Family), and psychologically.
Saturday, May 20
Thursday, April 20
Monday, March 27
Gym project SENT ✓
Progress feels good :) ... especially a week removed from a silly lumbar back strain, and a few months shy of my 40th birthday... last gym 7C+ was in my 20s.
Thursday, March 23
Eco-Friendly Climbing: How to Minimize Your Environmental Impact
As rock climbing and bouldering continue to grow in popularity, it's essential for climbers to consider the environmental impact of their outdoor pursuits. Climbing can have detrimental effects on ecosystems and delicate rock formations if not approached responsibly. In this blog post, we will explore practical ways for climbers to minimize their environmental footprint and promote sustainability in the sport.
- Choose Sustainable Gear
Invest in eco-friendly climbing gear made from sustainable materials or recycled sources. Many brands are now offering products with a reduced environmental impact, such as ropes made from repurposed materials, harnesses made from recycled materials, chalk bags made from organic cotton, biodegradable tape, and magnesium carbonate chalk alternatives . Supporting these companies not only helps protect the environment but also encourages innovation in sustainable gear production
- Follow Leave No Trace Principles
Adhere to the Leave No Trace principles when climbing outdoors. These guidelines include:
- Plan ahead and prepare: Research the area, know the rules and regulations, and avoid climbing during nesting season for birds or other sensitive times.
- Travel and camp on durable surfaces: Stick to established trails and campgrounds to minimize damage to vegetation and soil.
- Dispose of waste properly: Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Use designated bathroom facilities or pack out human waste.
- Leave what you find: Don't pick plants, move rocks, or disturb wildlife. Avoid damaging rock faces by using removable protection or clean climbing techniques.
- Minimize campfire impact: Use a camp stove instead of making a fire, or utilize established fire rings if fires are allowed.
- Respect wildlife: Observe from a distance, avoid feeding animals, and store food and trash securely.
- Be considerate of other visitors: Keep noise levels down and follow the established climbing ethics of the area.
- Carpool or Use Public Transportation
Reduce your carbon footprint by carpooling with fellow climbers or using public transportation when possible. Not only does this save on fuel and emissions, but it also helps minimize the impact on local resources and parking areas at popular climbing destinations.
- Participate in Clean-up Events
Join or organize clean-up events at your local climbing areas to help maintain the environment and promote responsible climbing practices. Collecting trash, removing graffiti, and repairing damaged trails are just a few ways you can give back to the outdoor spaces you love.
- Educate Yourself and Others
Stay informed about local climbing access issues, conservation efforts, and best practices. Share this knowledge with fellow climbers to raise awareness and foster a culture of environmental stewardship within the climbing community.
As climbers, we have a responsibility to protect the natural landscapes that provide us with endless opportunities for adventure and personal growth. By adopting eco-friendly practices and encouraging others to do the same, we can minimize our environmental impact and preserve these incredible outdoor spaces for future generations. Let's work together to make climbing a sustainable sport that respects and cherishes our planet.
Sincerely, guest post writer,
ChatGPT4
Tuesday, March 14
power work
sometimes it’s about letting go …
of pride in a stubborn project
of weight of expectation, pessimism
… and gravity
NM
Monday, February 27
Strength Phase #1 Complete
After three (3) weeks of strength work in gym, it’s time for 1st deload week of 2023 (50% of volume, more yoga). I’d initially intended to do four (4) weeks but I prioritize based on how my body responds to training and pushing in a progressive meticulous manner. Good PRs set, metric data to incorporate, and feeling fit ! Satisfied with gains and excited what’s to come; I’m looking forward to weather window/time afforded to test the fitness outside soon! Next week onward to Phase 2:
P O W E R ๐ฅ
Tuesday, February 14
Phase 1 : time 2 build
strength
Couple quick thoughts:
I.
II.
I utilize what I can
responsibly to make
my body mind and spirit
better at scaling obstacles .
NM
Monday, January 30
2023... ChatGPT wrote this.
Cold therapy is the practice of exposing the body to cold temperatures, usually through cold showers or ice baths, to improve circulation, reduce inflammation, and enhance recovery from exercise.
cold therapy can be beneficial for:
- Boosting metabolism and burning fat
- Relieving pain and muscle soreness
- Improving sleep quality
- Strengthening the immune system
- Enhancing recovery from exercise
- Reducing inflammation
- Improving skin complexion
Tim Ferriss, in his book 4 Hour Body, suggests incorporating cold therapy into one's routine, starting with short exposure times and gradually increasing the duration as the body becomes acclimated to the cold. He also provides tips for making cold therapy more tolerable, such as taking cold showers with lukewarm water first and gradually reducing the temperature.