Thursday, November 26

SENDAGE [plural!!!]

 

On Monday, November 23rd, I had my best bouldering day EVER! I found success on my first V10 ULTIMATE DOOM and fourth ever V9 PIPEDREAMS. Felt unreal both of these projects going down in the same session

Big Gratitude. 

Celebrate responsibly this holiday season folks.

NM


Saturday, October 3

DO NOT BOAST OF TOMORROWS

Blend of progress plateaus setbacks and paradigm shifts. I am making some links:

Pipedreams V9 (a mountain of two moves)
nature of line reminds me of Crimps ...working on start holds  
Thor’s Prodigy (stoutest V7 ever) 
I need more core strength... last move to slot still elusive

Slingsby’s Arete (2nd stoutest V7 lol) Figuring micro beta that best fits for my body


Ultimate Doom V10
 conditions + clear devotion + beta for full linkage 


be well. 

NM

Tuesday, September 8

Progress with goal !!!

So, yesterday Crimps 7C/V9 went down despite a hole in my finger. Mind was right. I was able to manage ascent "twice" (first time I dabbed on pad... so I removed pad lol). Great conditions. I give thanks. 




Tuesday, August 25

Getting closer to goal...

 Couple hints: 

1. 


 
Locale = Northwest Branch
 
[no fun in spoiling rest of surprise til it get thicc]


encore: Here's footage of The Tulip from today
 (I wasn't satisfied with first send when I realized I'd skipped R gaston move)



Saturday, July 4

COVID 19 & “FLOYD 20”

I am alive, inspite of the world going to hell and “our” beloved climbing fraternity/sorority . I am appalled by much from the so called “outdoor enthusiasts” sector. “Climbing Karens” and “Q anon experienced climbers” what else can this “Shameful tool of the moronic Left” say lol. Sigh. Perhaps it’s better I just witness my knee jerk reactions and responses in my self, listen, and learn

Oh yeah, and gratefully go climb :)

As rock climbers there is inherent risk and challenge-seeking we are privileged to be able to SAVOR that all but a small percentage of non-white America does not have means to afford. If you are challenged with SURVIVAL and proving your right to exist, the proposition of rock climbing seems silly. Just a reminder that the glitzy gyms and e zines we read are very glazed grazed and protected by smiling fangs. Still very much a White Man and Woman's fraternity and sorority. 1% of climbers is Black. I don’t need to be shown a seat or a table or be given a platform to “take over.”

That is all.

1ove

NM


P.S. 
here’s less heavy-to-digest fare; the world is a gym ...



Tuesday, May 19

THREE LIFE(R)STYLE CHANGES TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE


Replenish 
Don’t obsess over the minutia with HYDRATION. Whether two liters, a gallon a day, or more, figure out how to make hydration a habit, and just drink the water.
Two tips:
  1. Attach drinking water to a morning routine.
  1. Commit to a water bottle and never leave it empty.

Rejuvinate 
SLEEP/REST is inescapable. Design separate spaces (hardline, no cheating)... once in bed no online/screen time.
Don't rush rest (simple concept, elusive in practice)


Reform 
“It’s the little details that are vital. Little things make big things happen.” – Coach John Wooden
CONTINUOUS LEARNING, mastering the fundamentals, and ensuring little things be on point are the keys to success

one last thing...
pair an appetite for curiosity with an appetite for continuous challenge

source: https://www.trainingbeta.com/lifestyle-changes/


Monday, February 24

58 F today !!!! Crimptastic 7A

My first repeat of this line in a couple of years! Milestone in return to form :) Felt great

Stay tuned. I have more lines to revisit here and a few projects

Blessed  .
            NM

Sunday, February 9

12 routes 9a to 9b+ in 12 months

"Success is just a bonus of a great battle. 
         If you take every day like that, you are going
just for the fight and not the success.
Paradoxically, it works very well.

SEB BOUIN 

8a.nu Sport climber of the Year
sources: 8a.nuhttp://fanatic-climbing.com/video-seb-bouin-la-rage-dadam-9b-b/

Wednesday, February 5

TO·POL·O·GY
/təˈpäləjē/
noun
Mathematics
the study of geometric properties and spatial relations unaffected by the continuous change of shape or size of figures
https://www.dictionary.com/


"this is not my story but it has a good ending...
...98% of your perception is not real, you create it."
Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche
                                
  \
   \
    \
https://www.mountaingear.com/trango-rock-prodigy-training-center/MG247088P.html
Confronted with limited time, budget, options, but limitless psyche... this tendon torquing hypertrophy oasis seems the best option for 2020 vision to become manifest

NM

Wednesday, January 8

2 0 2 0 goals D R E A M S blah blah blah

 hard numbers
sport 5.13b/8a again
boulder v10/7C+
trad 5.12a/7a+

 softy intangibles
let go of regrets
rediscover discipline
make it fun
be brave

... more to come.

NM