Bad Forecast, GREAT Weather in Leavenworth!

Here's a short clip preview (write-up on the way)...

Me on a superb & stout v3 named Crimp, Crimp, Slap, Throw!

A Great Week!!

This past week of summer has been the essence of what I've been looking forward to all school year. I got outdoors climbing three times this week... all three times with my good friend Dom.

Wednesday, it was great to participate once again (after a two year hiatus) in the great tradition of Wednesday Night Climb at Off's Wall in Tenino. The intimate local community vibe, supportive atmosphere, and jokes, not to mention the technical (at times heady) climbing make it a great place to crag!

(click on any pic to enLARGE)

Doug getting it done on an area classic @ Off's Wall in Tenino

Dom nearing the chains of "Confucious" 5.11b

Highlights @ Off's Wall in Tenino:

• reuniting with Ed, Duke, Doug, and Off again
• my onsight lead of "Confucious" 5.11b (Off says it may be the first onsight of the route)
• my flash of a really cool 5.10+ called "Gloater" which includes, vertical, slab, and (sort-of) dihedral climbing in a single pitch with some cool mantels.

Footage of Dom nearing the chains on "Confucious" 5.11b

STOP THE PRESS!

Yesterday (6/17/09) @ the Quarry, Jimmy made the historic 3rd ascent of Legends 5.12c!! I have tried it multiple times on TR and can attest to how hard it is! Excellent send Jimmy. Also Dom and I redpointed Futility Bill 5.11d and Doug sent Squirt Theory 5.10d.

It's really been cool reconnecting with the social scene in Olympia again. There have been alot of potlucks, BBQs, game nights (Thanks to Erica!), and just righteous conversation and energy being shared by all. My favorite game lately is called Settlers of Cataan (shown below)

I'm not even gonna begin to try and type instructions/strategy for this game here.

...oh yeah playing Boggle was DOPE too (even though I sucked @ it)!

Friday Dom, Laura, and I decided to go cragging at Exit 38. We initally had planned to hike all the way to Bob's Area (approx. 1 hr approach), however we found enough to do just at Amazonia and Actual Cave.

Dom and Laura en route to Amazonia

FYI: Amazonia has a really good warmup 5.10a to the left... everything's moderate from 5.9-5.11a so it's a good spot for that (some routes are chossy though).


Laura dismantling the crux moves of an unkown 5.11a

When we moved over to Actual Cave I FINALLY managed to redpoint Mr. Big 5.12a and surprised myself by nabbing second go a successful lead of the improbable-looking roof Cyanide 5.12b! I definitely feel stronger than last time I was here. Both routes climb waaaay better than they look...so next time you're walking by Actual cave, on your way to Bob's Area, check IT!

Dom on his onsight lead of Mr. Big 5.12a (sick)

Saturday Dom and I got out with Scott to BOTH exit 32 and 38! for a great day of climbing . We started the day @ Little Si and then made our way to the Gunshow sector of Far Side @ exit 38. Scott started the day off well with a rad TR onsight of a cool 5.9 slab @ Repo Wall, and then I lead Mambo Jambo 5.10b on all-gear for the first time, which I felt good about. I had been inspired after Dom's skip-the-bolts ascent.

Scott and I rock'n @ Repo Crag! (video footage of Mambo Jambo on the way)

After Repo Wall we moved on to World Wall I (home of many trials, tribulations, epics, and victories). Dom had come really close to sending PC7 5.12d last time he was here, so he went for the redpoint today... the way he was climbing the route I KNEW he was gonna send until... he got to a key upper crux hold that had been broken between when he was on it and now. No hard feelings, but it was a definite dissappointment for all of us. Here is a (poor) video clip of Dom on it:

Dom & PC7 ...to be continued.

Feeling inspired nontheless after Dom's bummer redpoint burn, I decided to have a go on a project of my own- Bust the Rhythm 5.12c. I felt pretty dialed on the easier 5.10 climbing and then went into the first crux perfectly...wheew, I collected my breath and composure, and then proceeded to fire the cruxy stemming moves in the hanging dihedral and clipped the anchor. I look forward to gaining more experience and efficiency on climbs with stemming/dihedral situations...there is definitely a feng shui to it.

From Little Si, we rocketed up I-90 for our last stop of the trip: The Gunshow. Scott and I had never been here (one time we looked for it, but didn't hike far enough) so Dom was a gracious guide. It's a great area that I definitely would like to return to sometime. The highlight here was onsighting one of the best long slab climbs around, with a title fitting for the conclusion of this blog entry: Endless Bliss