exercises for P O W E R

source: Charlie Schreiber, CSCS

Standardized Board Tips

• Anchor Hand: When making a big move, focus on squeezing and controlling your anchor hand (the bottom hand) rather than just the hold you're reaching for
• Utilize "cheating" holds (better feet, bump holds) to work on specific parts of a climb
• Experiment with Arm Position: For anchor hands, experiment with pulling in (bent arm) or keeping your arm straight to see what works best for the individual move and your climbing style
• Tweeze: A "tweeze" is when you put both feet on a hold and squeeze it, which helps you push off and pull yourself into the wall, especially on steep climbs 
• Dig and Drive: You need to be able to dig with your feet and drive off them on almost all board climbs
• Wiggle Toe: Wiggling your toe on a hold helps you think about pressing your foot into the hold and ensures it's sticking
• Maintain Pressure: Don't forget about your foot as you start a move; keep pressure on your toe to prevent slips
• 2-5 minutes rest between attempts on limit moves, 3-6 attempts per session per project keeps motivation fresh

sources:  https://youtu.be/Axn-iYn8Z1o?si=s8JRTtJ6e2siqdEO

GALLADAH

 

 

 

cinematography rights: Alexandré Wing 

https://youtube.com/@awvisuals_?si=7XUV5QQeA0sizI4e

breakthrough in the studio

 

Finally connected first crux move on Aloha v10

Great day outdoors. Thank you Alex 👊🏽 

 Failure is not failure 

it’s an index of understanding 

i cursed tore my skin sore status post the frustration of uncertainty when will it go ? how will I know?  readiness cheapened by deservedness (entitlement) traps gift exchange expensive loss less as expectation evaporates ...

         experience

L 

lesson earned once more 

second language no need for translation

confidence born from respect of humility in movement 

F l o w

N1

 

sustained L hand DIP strain :/ on God knows what ,but fired first go of session a fun V8 Sidewinder2000 :)

 

 道

dyno method for crux 2

Quality session today. I managed couple new climbs on TB1 as warm up in gym (ideal when time permits) then drove to Aloha. I felt much better than last session (prior too cold, never felt engaged). I definitely thrive with warmer conditions. Steve and Alek's input helped (i.e L lower extremity engagement/turning knee in & catching L toe hook off start hold in set up). Getting better lift with hip apex timed precise and I think dyno method might be the way to go for crux 2. As for crux 1, holds are bigger and throw is closer than its felt... i can climb this

3.12.25 | 58°F 28% 

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NM