“never surprise fingers”​

Goal is not to "avoid crimps" Reduce force rate and joint collapse during contact

      "LEGENDS" 4th ascent

​time under tension

no thumb wrap

teaches the pulley to tolerate load without movement.

1.

Isometric force absorption (base)

• 20 mm edge
• Half crimp, thumb off
• 7s on / 3s off × 6
• RPE 5–6

This is non‑negotiable for A2 durability.

​2. 

Eccentric control (critical, often skipped)

• Hang in half crimp
• Slowly open the PIP 5–10°
• Re‑close under control

You’re teaching the pulley to resist opening under load — exactly what happens on contact.

Layer 3: Sub‑max dynamic finger engagement

Only after layers 1–2 feel boring.

Good options

• Small controlled bumps between edges
• 
  
  Feet‑on campus laddering
• Assisted deadpoints to large edges

Bad options (for now)

• Max double dynos
• Full‑crimp latches
• Board problems that demand instant closure

How to do wall crawls correctly

• Angle: slightly overhanging or vertical
• Holds: edges you could crimp, but don’t
• Grip: open → half only
• Speed: slow enough to feel finger engagement
• Rule: no popping, no snappn​g

2–3× / week

• Isometric half‑crimp hangs
• Eccentric finger control
• Wall crawls (10–15 min)

1–2× / week

• Modified board sessions: 
• No max dynos
• Limit tries
• Intentional soft catches

Always

• H‑tape
• Thumb off in rehab phase
• Pain next day = your real metric

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Bottom line (honest and important)

You don’t need to give up jump‑and‑catch forever.

You need to:

• Catch softer
• Close slower
• Train absorption, not just peak force

Do that, and you don’t just heal the A2 —
you come back more accurate, more durable, and harder to injure at V10+.

source: CoPilot ™