Standardized Board Tips
- Anchor Hand: When making a big move, focus on squeezing and controlling your anchor hand (the bottom hand) rather than just the hold you're reaching for
- Utilize "cheating" holds (better feet, bump holds) to work on specific parts of a climb
- Experiment with Arm Position: For anchor hands, experiment with pulling in (bent arm) or keeping your arm straight to see what works best for the individual move and your climbing style
- Tweeze: A "tweeze" is when you put both feet on a hold and squeeze it, which helps you push off and pull yourself into the wall, especially on steep climbs
- Dig and Drive: You need to be able to dig with your feet and drive off them on almost all board climbs
- Wiggle Toe: Wiggling your toe on a hold helps you think about pressing your foot into the hold and ensures it's sticking
- Maintain Pressure: Don't forget about your foot as you start a move; keep pressure on your toe to prevent slips
- 2-5 minutes rest between attempts on limit moves, 3-6 attempts per session per project keeps motivation fresh
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