Goal is not to "avoid crimps" Reduce force rate and joint collapse during contact
"LEGENDS" 4th ascent
time under tension
no thumb wrap
teaches the pulley to tolerate load without movement.
1.
Isometric force absorption (base)
- 20 mm edge
- Half crimp, thumb off
- 7s on / 3s off × 6
- RPE 5–6
This is non‑negotiable for A2 durability.
2.
Eccentric control (critical, often skipped)
- Hang in half crimp
- Slowly open the PIP 5–10°
- Re‑close under control
You’re teaching the pulley to resist opening under load — exactly what happens on contact.
Layer 3: Sub‑max dynamic finger engagement
Only after layers 1–2 feel boring.
Good options
- Small controlled bumps between edges
- Feet‑on campus laddering
- Assisted deadpoints to large edges
Bad options (for now)
- Max double dynos
- Full‑crimp latches
- Board problems that demand instant closure
How to do wall crawls correctly
- Angle: slightly overhanging or vertical
- Holds: edges you could crimp, but don’t
- Grip: open → half only
- Speed: slow enough to feel finger engagement
- Rule: no popping, no snappng
2–3× / week
- Isometric half‑crimp hangs
- Eccentric finger control
- Wall crawls (10–15 min)
1–2× / week
- Modified board sessions:
- No max dynos
- Limit tries
- Intentional soft catches
Always
- H‑tape
- Thumb off in rehab phase
- Pain next day = your real metric
Bottom line (honest and important)
You don’t need to give up jump‑and‑catch forever.
You need to:
- Catch softer
- Close slower
- Train absorption, not just peak force
Do that, and you don’t just heal the A2 —
you come back more accurate, more durable, and harder to injure at V10+.
you come back more accurate, more durable, and harder to injure at V10+.
source: CoPilot ™
