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R Hand 3rd digit (middle finger) A2 partial tear 4 - 6 wks

 

"Monday blues" 2/23/26

My fingers have been feeling good, but then lack of rest, nutrition and an excess of pushing too hard caught up to me.

well... , could've been better, could've been worse.

Projects (and following instructions) await

Nicholas

An A2 pulley tear is one of the most common climbing finger injuries, and good rehab can mean the difference between full recovery and a chronic weak finger. I’ll give you a clear, phase‑based rehab plan that matches how climbers actually load fingers — and I’ll flag when you should not progress.

Important note (not legal/medical advice):
This is educational guidance for climbers. If you have visible bowstringing, loss of finger flexion strength, or pain at rest, you should be evaluated by a hand specialist or sports PT.

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What the A2 Pulley Does (why rehab matters)

• The A2 pulley holds the flexor tendons close to the proximal phalanx.
• Crimping dramatically increases force on A2 (especially full crimp).
• Healing depends on progressive, controlled loading — not rest alone.

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 First: Grade the Injury (rough guide)

Grade	What it feels like	Rehab time (typical)
Grade I (strain)	Tender, no bowstringing	2–4 weeks
Grade II (partial tear)	Pain with crimping, mild swelling	6–8 weeks
Grade III (complete rupture)	Bowstringing, weakness	10–14+ weeks

If you’re unsure → treat it like Grade II.

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 Phase 1: Acute Protection (Days 3–14)

Goal: Calm inflammation, maintain motion, prevent stiffness

 Do

• Relative rest (no crimping, no pockets)
• Open-hand only, very easy climbing if pain-free
• Light range-of-motion
• H-taping or pulley ring (support, not immobilization)

 Avoid

• Full crimp
• Campus board
• Hard pinches that flex the PIP aggressively

Pain rule:

• Pain during activity ≤ 2/10
• No pain increase the next day

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 Phase 2: Early Loading (Weeks 2–4)

Goal: Stimulate tendon & pulley remodeling

 Key exercise: Isometric Open-Hand Hangs

• Edge: 20–30 mm
• Grip: Open hand only
• Load: Bodyweight or assisted
• Time: 5–10 sec holds
• Sets: 5–8
• Frequency: Every other day

Isometrics are excellent for tendon healing and pain reduction.

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 Adjunct rehab

• Rice bucket finger flexion
• Rubber-band finger extension
• Dorsal interosseous work (you’re already doing this — good)

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 Phase 3: Progressive Strength (Weeks 4–6)

Goal: Restore load tolerance without crimping

 Hangboard progression

• Open-hand → half crimp with thumb off
• Edge size: 20 mm → 15 mm
• Intensity: RPE 5–6 (NOT max)
• Protocol: 7s on / 3s off × 6 reps × 3 sets

 Introduce:

• Easy half crimp on jugs
• Very light no-hang blocks

Still avoid:

• Full crimp
• Dynamic moves

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 Phase 4: Controlled Crimp Reintroduction (Weeks 6–8)

Goal: Rebuild pulley-specific strength

 Crimp re-entry rules

• Start with half crimp only
• Large edges (>18–20 mm)
• Isometric first → then movement

 Example progression

1. Half crimp hangs (light)
2. Static board climbing
3. Small controlled lock-offs
4. Only then → full crimp (brief, controlled)

If pain increases the next day → regress 1 step.

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 Phase 5: Return to Performance (Weeks 8–12)

Goal: Full loading tolerance

• Gradually resume: 
• Smaller edges
• Higher intensity
• Limited full crimp usage
• Keep taping during hard sessions for another 2–4 weeks

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 Taping: What Actually Helps

H-taping or pulley ring:

• Does not prevent rupture
• DOES reduce bowstringing and pain
• Useful during return-to-load phases

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 Red Flags (stop & reassess)

• Visible bowstringing
• Sharp pain during easy open-hand
• Swelling that doesn’t improve
• Pain at rest or at night

These suggest under-healing or overloading.

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 Key Rehab Principles (remember this)

• Load heals pulleys — spikes re-injure them
• Progress volume before intensity
• Open-hand > half crimp > full crimp
• Pain next day matters more than pain during

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If you want, tell me:

• Which finger and how long ago the injury happened
• Whether you’re seeing bowstringing
• Your current climbing grade and training style

I can fine‑tune the rehab timeline and give you a return‑to-crimp protocol tailored exactly to you.

Provide your feedback on BizChat

You said:

R hand 3rd digit Feb 21st. no bowstringing (but Ive been H taping). V8-11, training style is go hard on standardized board (TB1)

Copilot said:

Copilot

Perfect — that context helps a lot.

Summary of what you’ve told me

• Right hand, 3rd digit (middle finger)
• Injury date Feb 21
• No visible bowstringing (even without tape → good sign)
• V8–V11
• Training style: hard standardized board (TB1)

Given that, this looks most consistent with a Grade I–II A2 partial tear in a high-load climber, and the big risk is returning to TB1 intensity too fast because board grips + incut edges + half/full crimp = max A2 stress.

Below is a TB1‑specific, week‑by‑week rehab + return‑to‑board plan that assumes you’re currently ~2 weeks post‑injury. If you’re a bit earlier/later, slide the timeline accordingly but keep the progression order.

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 Big Picture Rules (for you specifically)

These matter more than any single exercise:

1. Volume before intensity (esp. on boards)
2. Open → half crimp → full crimp, no skipping
3. Pain during ≤2/10, pain next day = 0–1/10
4. TB1 = limit grip specificity, so you must artificially control load

You’re strong enough that your nervous system will outpace tissue healing — we have to slow you down on purpose.

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Phase 2 (NOW): Early Reloading

~Days 10–28 post injury

 What you CAN do

Climbing

• Up to V4–V6, only: 
• Open hand
• Big slopers
• Jugs
• No board climbing yet
• No moves where you “snap” into a half crimp

Hangboard (2–3×/week)

• Edge: 20–25 mm
• Grip: Open hand only
• Load: Bodyweight or assisted
• Protocol: 
• 6 × 7s on / 3s off
• 2–3 sets
• RPE ≤5

This is tendon signaling, not training.

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Rehab accessories (keep these)

• H‑taping during all climbing
• Rice bucket / putty flexion
• Rubber band extension
• DI work (abduction, lateral stability)

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Phase 3: Strength Without Crimp Spikes

~Weeks 4–6 post injury

 Hangboard progression

Introduce half crimp with thumb OFF.

• Edge: 20 mm
• Load: Bodyweight or slightly assisted
• Protocol: 
• 6 × 7s on / 3s off
• 3 sets
• RPE 5–6
• Stop if you feel sharp pain at the proximal phalanx

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 Board-adjacent work (IMPORTANT for TB1 climbers)

You still shouldn’t be doing limit board problems, but you can:

• Feet-on campusing on jugs
• Static board movement on large holds
• Limit yourself to 70% effort

If you feel tempted to “try hard,” it’s too early.

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Phase 4: Controlled Crimp Reintroduction

~Weeks 6–8

This is where most re-tears happen.

 Crimp rules

• Half crimp only
• Large edges (≥18–20 mm)
• Isometric before dynamic
• No thumb wrap yet

 Hangboard

• Half crimp
• Add small external load (1–3 kg)
• Keep volume low

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 Board climbing (reintroduced carefully)

• TB1 only on submax problems
• Cap attempts: 
• Max 3 tries per problem
• Max 45–60 min session
• Avoid: 
• High‑tension underclings
• Tiny incuts
• Cross‑through full crimps

Tape stays on.

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Phase 5: Return to Full Board Intensity

~Weeks 8–12

Only move here if:

• No pain during
• No pain the next day
• No tenderness on palpation

 Full crimp reintroduction

• Short duration
• Large edges first
• Limit number of full‑crimp moves per session

A good rule:

If you full crimped hard today, you don’t full crimp hard tomorrow.

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 Taping Guidance (for you)

• Continue H‑taping through week 10–12
• Especially important on TB1 days
• Think of it as load smoothing, not protection

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TB1‑Specific Red Flags

Immediately back off if you notice:

• Pain localized at the base of the proximal phalanx
• Pain during half crimp lock‑offs
• “Twangy” sensation during board moves
• Tenderness that’s worse the next morning

These mean the pulley is getting spiked faster than it can adapt.

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 Final Reality Check (honest)

At V8–V11, you’ll feel ready before your A2 actually is.

Most successful board climbers I’ve worked with:

• Lose ~6–10 weeks of peak board performance
• But gain long‑term finger durability if they respect this window

Rush it → chronic A2 pain. Respect it → back to projecting at full confidence.

source: CoPilot ™