You need consistency to really evolve

stagnation kills motivation

injury kills progress

Deload Week

 Feeling good with gains achieved after power phase. Last session repeated some benchmarks and have good data for pushing PRs next week when Summer ‘23 training block 2 begins  

campus template to try (+McColl’s hand switches and Paul’s Crosses)

Last session

“I'm glad that the range of moves I can perform has definitely increased compared to before. “ Ryuichi M

'23 Summer Periodization Schedule

 

Heading into the hotter humid months locally and recovering from some scar tissue buildup in L ankle, this is the perfect time to get back to the basics: gym training, goal setting for Fall outdoors, micro/meso periodization optimization, reframing of pressure/passion ... as Son says to 'live it perfectly'

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

⏾ deload week

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

👊POWER ENDURANCE (2) weeks

Goals this Fall are to send  5.14 sport, a particular 13- trad line, & several double digit boulders

Sincerely,

now 40 Year Old Me : )

a successful failure

 

 click to enLARGE

“Dirty Ernie Wall” …an unassuming wall at NWBranch still harbors for me a couple elusive climbs. One of them I’ve dubbed DErT (or “Dirty Ernie Traverse”). 

I have every sequence mastered down to chronology of foot placements/hip adjustments, the hand holds feel bigger than ever I’m breathing well, I feel in control of each movement…until I don’t and then fall …every time thus far. 

For a while I considered it might be easier than I'd thought, but now I’m convinced it warrants double digits at V10. I’m now able to do V9 section 3-5 times in a session but exiting this series of burly moves and linking into the long finale (feels somewhere between 6C to 7A+ on any given day) isn’t as doable for me as I’d forecasted. 

I’ve reliably been doing a one on one off schedule for the past few weeks with steady progress, one regression (see last post), & impressively good weather/conditions. There have been a few very close goes but no bueno on the send. Although my confidence remains that I’ll do this climb, I need a break…physically, emotionally (as does my Family), and psychologically. 

V9 section

"one hang" of this 45 move "sport climb"

Going out with a literal splash 

Till next chapter with

Grace & Gratitude

.

NM

It comes down to the details and margins…

 

5.18

5.20

Two Moves to Go before Links

wrestling Boss   

 

suspension of 

                        disbelief 

release from 

expectation

Gym project SENT ✓

Progress feels good :) ... especially a week removed from a silly lumbar back strain, and a few months shy of my 40th birthday... last gym 7C+ was in my 20s.

Eco-Friendly Climbing: How to Minimize Your Environmental Impact

As rock climbing and bouldering continue to grow in popularity, it's essential for climbers to consider the environmental impact of their outdoor pursuits. Climbing can have detrimental effects on ecosystems and delicate rock formations if not approached responsibly. In this blog post, we will explore practical ways for climbers to minimize their environmental footprint and promote sustainability in the sport.

1. Choose Sustainable Gear

Invest in eco-friendly climbing gear made from sustainable materials or recycled sources. Many brands are now offering products with a reduced environmental impact, such as ropes made from repurposed materials, harnesses made from recycled materials, chalk bags made from organic cotton, biodegradable tape, and magnesium carbonate chalk alternatives . Supporting these companies not only helps protect the environment but also encourages innovation in sustainable gear production

2. Follow Leave No Trace Principles

Adhere to the Leave No Trace principles when climbing outdoors. These guidelines include:

• Plan ahead and prepare: Research the area, know the rules and regulations, and avoid climbing during nesting season for birds or other sensitive times.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces: Stick to established trails and campgrounds to minimize damage to vegetation and soil.
• Dispose of waste properly: Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Use designated bathroom facilities or pack out human waste.
• Leave what you find: Don't pick plants, move rocks, or disturb wildlife. Avoid damaging rock faces by using removable protection or clean climbing techniques.
• Minimize campfire impact: Use a camp stove instead of making a fire, or utilize established fire rings if fires are allowed.
• Respect wildlife: Observe from a distance, avoid feeding animals, and store food and trash securely.
• Be considerate of other visitors: Keep noise levels down and follow the established climbing ethics of the area.

3. Carpool or Use Public Transportation

Reduce your carbon footprint by carpooling with fellow climbers or using public transportation when possible. Not only does this save on fuel and emissions, but it also helps minimize the impact on local resources and parking areas at popular climbing destinations.

4. Participate in Clean-up Events

Join or organize clean-up events at your local climbing areas to help maintain the environment and promote responsible climbing practices. Collecting trash, removing graffiti, and repairing damaged trails are just a few ways you can give back to the outdoor spaces you love.

5. Educate Yourself and Others

Stay informed about local climbing access issues, conservation efforts, and best practices. Share this knowledge with fellow climbers to raise awareness and foster a culture of environmental stewardship within the climbing community.

As climbers, we have a responsibility to protect the natural landscapes that provide us with endless opportunities for adventure and personal growth. By adopting eco-friendly practices and encouraging others to do the same, we can minimize our environmental impact and preserve these incredible outdoor spaces for future generations. Let's work together to make climbing a sustainable sport that respects and cherishes our planet.

Sincerely, guest post writer,

ChatGPT4

power work

 sometimes it’s about letting go …

of pride in a stubborn project

of weight of expectation, pessimism

… and gravity

shalom

NM

Strength Phase #1 Complete

After three (3) weeks of strength work in gym, it’s time for 1st deload week of 2023 (50% of volume, more yoga). I’d initially intended to do four (4) weeks but I prioritize based on how my body responds to training and pushing in a progressive meticulous manner. Good PRs set, metric data to incorporate, and feeling fit ! Satisfied with gains and excited what’s to come; I’m looking forward to weather window/time afforded to test the fitness outside soon! Next week onward to Phase 2: 

P O W E R 💥

7C send today @ gym

Phase 1 : time 2 build

strength 

Couple quick thoughts:

I.

source: i forgot (sorry... in advance of whomever checks my ass)

The STRENGTH to maintain contact on the FINGER holds and the ability to transfer as much tension as needed cephalocaudal chiefly through the CORE all the way down through the toes (unless if it's a dynamic move, I guess, which even then involves aspects of the POSTERIOR CHAIN)

This is the reason for why strength comes first... but is closely followed in order to work (I'd argue even is shadowed symbiotically) with power (i.e. what's the point of holding holds that you can't connect A to B?) and mobility (i.e. to access the range of a strength in a sustainable way). Just to repeat: 

strength comes first closely followed, in order to work, with power and mobility.

II.

"Ultimately grading is ... meant to make a climbing feat relatable" 

Aidan

I can honestly care less and less about grading. The asterix to this statement is that I find I care more and more about whether I can pull all the moves on a given project (or said in a different way, it bothers me more why I can't do a given move than what its grade is). Is it V7 or V9/10? Should grades be consistent indoors/outdoors? Do I even count the same footholds on a given climb that for someone else is a proud accomplishment they felt worthy to post as a reel on social media. Perhaps I'm just getting old, but what I know for sure is my passion for climbing continues building faster than any senile-ness, or sense of righteousness; Who am I to dictate what your climbing experience is in relation to mine? and vice versa. 

This isn't why I climb. Even though, yes climbing grades can be social fare, climbing can be far more complex, multifaceted and involve a range of motivations and emotions than just a number ascribed to a given perceived difficulty level. I do yearn to make climbing relatable as Aidan put it, because I find it satisfying. I'd probably not even bother posting this otherwise, and just jot my notes analog journal style (which I still do as well, and strongly encourage You to try as well). What I've found is more satisfying than grades, accolades, or even rewards. 

A hard stop for me in climbing has less to do with climbing feats and more to do with stewardship and preserving climbing as an experience for everyone...including those that come after Us.

I care more about You and I practicing the 7th generation principle than whether You match me surpassing the 7th grade of roped climbing. Can someone relate to the space You're in? To the space you hold for them? To the passion You feel? To the awareness You practice?

 

I wanted to clarify these aspects because I AM very goal and progression oriented on this blog and in general as a person...climbing 8a+/8B+/8c+ are very real actionable bucket list items to me, but those are personal decisions in terms of my own life trajectory and life satisfaction...

Insofar as my VIPs (values, interests, principles) intersect and interact with other climbers (and folk in general), I don't place much capital in how hard you climb in relation to me, nor whether we conceive of climbing (or a climb) in the same way. Simple as that. 

Yes guidebooks and consensus is important, but so is not being an asshole. I don't go to the climbing gym to work my ego or outside to be xenophobic of other user groups.

I utilize what I can 

responsibly to make 

my body mind and spirit 

better at scaling obstacles . 

                                          NM