Saturday, April 5
Wednesday, April 2
Failure is not failure
it’s an index of understanding
i cursed tore my skin sore status post the frustration of uncertainty when will it go ? how will I know? readiness cheapened by deservedness (entitlement) traps gift exchange expensive loss less as expectation evaporates ...
experience
L
lesson earned once more
second language no need for translation
confidence born from respect of humility in movement
F l o w
N1
Sunday, March 30
Monday, March 24
Sunday, March 16
Saturday, March 15
Wednesday, March 12
dyno method for crux 2
Quality session today. I managed couple new climbs on TB1 as warm up in gym (ideal when time permits) then drove to Aloha. I felt much better than last session (prior too cold, never felt engaged). I definitely thrive with warmer conditions. Steve and Alek's input helped (i.e L lower extremity engagement/turning knee in & catching L toe hook off start hold in set up). Getting better lift with hip apex timed precise and I think dyno method might be the way to go for crux 2. As for crux 1, holds are bigger and throw is closer than its felt... i can climb this
3.12.25 | 58°F 28%
.
NM
Sunday, March 2
Saturday, March 1
C R E A T I N E. [ It works ]
For a myraid of reasons, I had been reluctant over the years to try creatine. I was aware of it even in high school kids were trying it and I was critically skeptical at best. Pushing into my 40s now, out of a concern for studies about muscle wasting as an indicator of aging and the emphasis that I’ve began to place on strength training I decided to finally pull the trigger and try it. Less than 2months in and I’m thankful I did
- Increase muscular strength-endurance & power
- Accelerate recovery between bouts of intense exercise
- Promote gains in lean muscle mass
- Improve sports performance involving short- to moderate-duration bursts of high-intensity exertion
- Enhance cognition, speed of information processing, and memory, especially in times of metabolic stress, sleep deprivation, and with aging.
link:
source: PhysiVantage ™
Wednesday, February 26
Tuesday, February 25
electrolyte fundamentals
source: primalhydration ™
https://lloydspharmacy.ie/blogs/vitamins-supplements/what-minerals-do-our-bodies-need-and-why
Monday, February 24
optimal nutrition performance windows
30-60 minutes before you climb, eat foods that contain quick digesting carbohydrates. Foods like:
1 oz. pretzels
1 mini-bagel
1 piece of fruit—apples, bananas, oranges
(banana = 30min s/p peak energy)
¼ c dried fruit
8 oz. sports drink
2 sheets graham crackers
8 oz. chocolate milk
1 packet sports gels (like Gu)1 packet sports gummies and chews
Two to four hours before you climb, your body has some time to digest food. This means you can add a little protein, fat, and fiber, such as:
Peanut butter and jelly sandwich with chocolate milk or protein shake
Oatmeal with milk or almond milk, bananas, and walnutsTuna wrap with cheese and a side of fruit and yogurt
Fruit smoothie and a protein barTrail mix and an appleNut butter pouchesString cheeseJerky
Keep in mind, aim for hydration (e.g. water + electrolytes + splash of tart cherry juice), branch chain amino acids, and complex carbohydrates within 30min-60min post workout to begin recovery/repair/rebuild process. A full meal for individual weighing 70 kilograms (154 pounds), the maximum amount of protein that can be effectively utilized for muscle protein synthesis per meal would be around 17.5 to 28 grams of protein. 0.25g/kg-0.4g/kg bodyweight ; aim for 1.6 to 2.2 g/kg (e.g. 112-154g) daily total for those engaged in regular resistance training
source: Outside ™
Friday, February 21
Wednesday, February 12
Tuesday, February 11
Saturday, February 8
Monday, January 27
Sunday, January 26
Thursday, January 23
Tuesday, January 14
This is the level I feel at “V9c” … to employ a different spin on the insignia designating a classic of the Tension Board. I feel good about where I’m starting 2025.
To reach through V9+ to double digits, I need a plan; something a bit perplexing given the sea of options, varying veracities of data, and an ever more minuscule chunk of the 168 hrs in a week to deal. 4% to be exact…I’ve calculated.
With training time of 6hrs per week as a constant what goals and requisite plan can I make happen ?… time to imagine
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