Week 5 of 7

 There are approximately three (3) weeks left in 2021. With this in mind, I'm finna make results happen.

Tension Board ™ V10

Dirty Ernies Rampage V9

Dirty Ernie's Revenge V9 ✓ ✔ ☑ ✅ ✕ ✖ ✗ ✘ :)

Dirty Ernie's Full Traverse V10

12/14: Since last update, NWB wise not much new to report besides unlocking exit beta on Dirty Ernie’s Traverse (aka DErT)~ training has been focused albeit not the volume I’d prefer, but I’m feeling rested, strong, and gains are being made. 30mm one arm hangs, back to being able to do one arm pull ups and I made a trip out to Catoctin and sent No Expectations V8 !!! Feels bittersweet to be done with this beautiful cliff band. Perhaps time to look for my own addition in that sector? Linking DErT V10 and a climb at Cunningham Falls Never Let Me Go V8 are big on my mind at present.

Here’s send footage of No Expectation and best go yet on Don’t Let Me Go:

11/24: Yesterday marked 1 year anniversary of my first V10 , to celebrate (in unexpected fashion) I sent Dirty Ernies Revenge! Conditions were surprisingly good... Thomas met me at Northwest Branch for a short session together at Nice Slot boulder; he had to leave early so I decided to go take a look and see how DE felt down by the river... I improbably moved a HUGE log that'd drifted in the way of the wall. Everything clicked... footwork was precise, all the holds felt 10% larger, beta felt successively more solid each go til it got DONE. Memorable,  focused, meaningful send.

11/19: @ EarthTreks Columbia x10 min ARC on splash board, 30 min bouldering flashed 7, sent 7 second go (one from last session) got close on cool volumes V8, V10 project taken down :(, figured out Tension Board ™ app connectivity~ found  new V10 project :), did campus board (1/4/6, coordination drills x3 reps on criss cross/alternate hands, ladders, evens alternating ladders), 7/3 x1min 20mm crimp with 35lbs added weight on, core/lower back work, HIT kettlebell drill (8reps each leg), TRX drills 

11/15: @ EarthTreks Columbia x10 min ARC on splash board, 30 min bouldering including new V10 project and V7 in a session (1st since way back), campus board (1/4/6, coordination drills x3 reps on criss cross/alternate hands, ladders, match ladders), x4 7/3 min on slope, crimp, pinch, 20mm crimp with 35lbs added weight on, core/lower back work, HIT kettlebell drill (8reps each leg); body stats: 70kg/153lbs 182.88cm/6’0

11/14: Seam Nightmares V6 @ NWBranch

Goal is minimum two sessions per week for a total of 14. This will be good primer for '22, and hopefully will bear a few more gems this year.

Be well,

Nicholas

November 7th | Catoctin + Cunningham Falls

Thanks and shout outs to:

Shane (& Sierra), Mark, Jenna, Seth, Silas, Riley, Laura, JD, Wren (& Kiki), etc I bouldered with

 

Status Post

Having a baby changes your life… as does climbing. I am finding time the past few weeks to begin light training which feels wonderful to reconnect with my physical body. So much of fitness is a feel thing…it takes familiarity and yes time

But not as much as we think…

eg

10 minutes meditation here

5 minutes stretching there

25 push-ups anywhere  

Short term is 

smaller goals

have fun.

Minimal distraction = maximal experience.

Clarity, calmness, control

Long term goals (like the rocks) are still there … I can imagine them which makes them possible, however reticent a part of the narrative at present  

ASÉ 

nicholas

P.S. 🥓 

Tension Board ™ is “almost as good as the real thing” …gym goal is by end of year V10.  Here’s Turkey Bacon V7 I did yesterday :

Walk in the Sky ✅

 

Birthday Send: Here’s to 38!!!

 

PAN AFRIKAN V4 R

I've done my second and proudest FIRST ASCENT @ NORTHWEST BRANCH* !!!! 

It's an early birthday surprise being gifted the vision and perseverance for this committing climb. 

The holds on this line are dope. None of the moves are very sketchy, but there are spots on this rig definitely no fall zone, hence the R[isky] rating.

This is a stunningly independent and high quality line for the Northwest Branch bouldering community. 

Enjoy responsibly everyone. 

I humbly present..

PAN AFRIKAN V4 R

*note: to the best of everyone's knowledge... I have consulted two guidebook authors for the area (pending confirmation from one other early developer); at the end of the day, the long history and climbs of this place belong to everyone... including probable first ascentionist rock scrambler President Teddy Roosevelt who is known to have frequented these trails !

àṣẹ

   NM

 

 

The PRODIGY of THOR

So, the most formidable 7A+/V7 boulder I've ever climbed on finally went down this past week on Friday, April 23, 2021... the culmination of several years' attempts. I'm sure for differently sized/abled climbers this line fits perfectly for the grade, but for my temple it was a battle. I've invested more session time, doubt, frustration, stretching, finger training, pull ups/muscle ups, beta refinement, and daydreaming on this boulder problem than any V9 I've sent to date. For reference, I started working this line before Crimps and Pipe Dream and I sent both of those "V9s" last year! Thor's Prodigy was that hard for me!

Great lesson in seeking the challenge not the grade. I'm thankful for what I've learned on this one. Few more "impossible" lines left here for me at Northwest Branch

ASE  

  .  

NM

QUIET CHORDS OF PROGRESS

I made my best link yet on Thor’s Protege .  Piecing together body movement and proprioception required for other lines; e.g. making sense of Dirty Ernie links slowly. I still want finger to heal up more before resuming work on Curtain Call & Chaos Roof. 

Salaam

Nicholas

First Ascent

 It was nice getting out to NWBRANCH with Suradetch today. Climbed on a new (to me) boulder I found on hillside just past first stream crossing on trail en route to Curtain Call. 

Of course, pending confirmation, I did my first FA!

TREE HUGGER V4

Wrapped up session with lap of Edge of Chaos and various links on full rig... R pinch bump with L heel/knee scum. Tweaked L middle finger is feeling better. Poko a poko... big horizons happen. 

  .

NM

step at a time

 

progress on Curtain Call

UD DIRECT DONE!!!

 

More to come.

bless

im·mi·nence /ˈimənəns

 

UD DIRECT is CLOSE!!

I surprised myself by nearly sending one of my projects on Wednesday, despite battling a head cold. 

Attention is on staying "in box", core strength, foot work, conditions (mentally and externally), and building necessary power endurance.

Stay tuned!

.

NM

Northwest Branch Goal

Some have wondered "why do you climb so much here?" Convenience is a rationale I use to omit the real motivating factor.  So many other areas and climbs interest me, yes, ... and have more to offer qualitatively than here, but what once was a place I resented is now a refuge and proving ground. I got mad love for this boulder field and for how it has destroyed and rebuilt my temple better than a decade pulling indoors on plastic. fr

I have been afraid to the point of reticence to even discuss this objective openly : to send every hard line established at Northwest Branch. Talk is ultimately just that, but the business is at hand and I am well on my way toward completion of this MAJOR GOAL

Curtain Call  "V8"

Ultimate Doom Direct V11 soft

Chaos Roof V9 R

Thor's Protégé "V7"

Dirty Ernie variations V6-V9

Prelude to Crimps V11 solid

MAAT

  .   

NM

Trying hard and having fun;

neither can be faked. 

Keep it 100.

 

Á

së 

Nice footage I rediscovered from 2010

Put together by my friend Suradetch.

Looking forward to future big climbs...

ASE.

NM

Power Spot on Projects...

[click to enlarge]

I finally made it back to Northern MD bouldering which was nice. I look forward to future projects there.

Closer to the crib, at Northwest Branch, fewer and fewer lines remain. Major projects left:

◽️UD Direct V11 soft

◽️Chaos Roof V9 heady

◽️Thor’s Protegé V8 (sandbagged even with my upgrade)

◽️Curtain Call V8-V10 (depending on holds used)

◽️All the variations on Dirty Ernie boulder (V6-V9)

◽️SDS Crimps V11 hard

Aight, I guess that’s still quite a few. Nonetheless, I am beginning to plan and prepare for objectives and seasons beyond what one friend dubbed “the worst boulderfield in the US.”

Stay focused,

                                                                                                                   #newprojectselfie 

NM

Suradetch looks on as Thomas pulls off "last go, best go!" on Crimptastic V6

day at a time 💟

 

Legit V6s: Genetic & Nice Slot Direct SDS

G E N E T I C 🧬