I've given some thought to goals for the new year.
- Graduate/find job/pass NCLEX exam/relocate with girlfriend --- May/June (ish)
- Climb (duh)
a. Learn how to crack climb (i.e. trad) Trad, for me, is where I see my biggest evolution as a climber. I dream a lot of bigger faces, more air beneath me, and cleaner, more
sustained lines. It's amazing how climbers are blending the power/dynamism of bouldering and the face climbing prowess of sport climbing to re-imagine trad climbing.
b. Do a one-arm pull up This is a "left-over" from 2011. I choose to see this as a reason for excitement- I suck at the upper body stuff!! I've been training for this one by doing off-set pull-ups; using an elastic band for one arm. In theory, as my strength builds I should be pulling with the hand on the elastic band lower and lower and less and less until all my weight is managed by exclusively the other arm. The other training method I'm experimenting with are these things called negative isometrics (I think)- basically starting from the "top" of a pull up, letting go with one arm and holding with one arm the engaged pull up, slowly lowering as strength wanes. I've recently learned that push muscles (i.e. push ups/bench press) actually help to improve pull muscles... hmmm. Anyways, if anyone has advice for the one-arm pull up thing I'm all ears lol.
c. Motor Engrams In the climbing book I'm currently reading- Performance Rock Climbing (highly recommended), the authors are discussing engrams- the brain's complete record of the movements that we've made; the mind-body's "vocabulary," based on sensory feedback from our muscles, tendons, joints, and skin. Basically, I want to heighten the "IQ"of my climbing movement. For me, this equates to:
i. more dynamism
ii. greater precision/economy of movement
iii. focusing in on my style (note: look at this interesting article for more on what I mean by my"style": http://www.theboulderingbook.com/2012/01/interviewwithcarlotraversi.html)
iv. footwork... I already have good footwork, but I want to push, pull, and hook even smarter. (any suggestions for exercises?)
v. better onsight climbing
d. Climb harder... the inevitable topic: grades. I do have number goals for 2012. v11/8a bouldering, 5.13+ sport (solidification of 5.13- is a priority), and 5.12a/7a+ trad. We shall see...
Well, that's all for now. I leave you with a short clip from the (crazy) grand opening celebration of the expansion of EarthTreks-Rockville I attended this past weekend! Closest thing to a comp I've climbed at in years!
Next post will probably be on what training will be looking like leading up to my spring break - seven (7) weeks away. Thanks for reading!
Bless God al(l)ways.
NM
