Location: North Bend, Washington State
Sector: World Wall I @ Little Si
"Viagro" (5.12B) is an extension to the route "Viagra" which is a soft (no pun intended) 5.11+ face climb; the extension features a cool bouldery V3 crux surmounting the first roof system of the upper wall.
Yesterday I redpointed it after 6 attempts.
I was really stOked to nab this one and decided to keep going after the "Viagro" chains and try to punch it to the 'top' (note: picture) of the route "Viagrophobia" (5.12D). I got agonizingly close but ultimately just got too pumped on the upper headwall's crux - a left hand bump @ full extension to a sloper peppered w/ a couple elusive thin edges just enough to make a 2-finger crimp and thumb catch.
The move demands proper commitment, body alignment, and footwork - my indecisive feet were dancing all over small edges which was time consuming, & power-draining. Sonja's beta was to use a left heel hook on a crescent-shaped hold below the edge my left hand leaves from; I have high hopes that will unlock this full-value line.
NM
