Monday, September 1

Warm Up Sequelae

Mobility → gentle fluidity of movement; synovial fluid to joints, ROM, "greasing the gears"

Momentum → raising HR/temperature, easy movement/big holds, warm muscles

Fingers → recruitment process, gradual loading from feet on floor to jugs to crimps

Power →fast twitch neuromuscular potentiation explosive coordination, "wired firing together"

Wednesday, August 20

 
Don't Always Try to Perform:
Have a purpose for each session that isn't always about beating your personal best. Sometimes training through fatigue or focusing on specific goals is productive.

Arcing and Low Aerobic Work:
Incorporate easy climbing (arcing) to build aerobic endurance, which helps with recovery on holds and between attempts, especially important for sport climbing.

Get the Little Things Right:
Pay attention to hydration, chalk type, and appropriate clothing layers to improve comfort and performance.

Body Tension:
Focus on driving through your feet and maintaining body tension, not just core strength, to improve efficiency and control near your limit.

Track Your Progress:
Keep a training log or diary to monitor long-term progress, which helps maintain confidence and see improvements beyond short-term fluctuations.\

Train the Boring Things:
Don't neglect shoulder stability and flexibility, as these can make a big difference in climbing performance and injury prevention.

Break Down Bigger Goals:
Divide big goals into smaller, manageable chunks to stay motivated and track progress more easily.

Maintain Training During Performance Phases:
Continue some training during peak climbing seasons to avoid burnout and maintain top-end fitness.

Go to the Wall with a Plan:
Have a clear goal or structure for each session to stay focused and motivated, whether it's trying a set number of problems or focusing on project attempts.

Climb Different Styles:
Climbing a variety of styles and routes helps you learn new techniques, balance your strengths and weaknesses, and improve longevity as a climber.

source: lattice ™ , jen wood

Saturday, June 28

Standardized Board Tips



  • Anchor Hand: When making a big move, focus on squeezing and controlling your anchor hand (the bottom hand) rather than just the hold you're reaching for
  • Utilize "cheating" holds (better feet, bump holds) to work on specific parts of a climb
  • Experiment with Arm Position: For anchor hands, experiment with pulling in (bent arm) or keeping your arm straight to see what works best for the individual move and your climbing style
  • Tweeze: A "tweeze" is when you put both feet on a hold and squeeze it, which helps you push off and pull yourself into the wall, especially on steep climbs 
  • Dig and Drive: You need to be able to dig with your feet and drive off them on almost all board climbs
  • Wiggle Toe: Wiggling your toe on a hold helps you think about pressing your foot into the hold and ensures it's sticking
  • Maintain Pressure: Don't forget about your foot as you start a move; keep pressure on your toe to prevent slips
  • 2-5 minutes rest between attempts on limit moves, 3-6 attempts per session per project keeps motivation fresh

Thursday, April 10

breakthrough in the studio

 



Finally connected first crux move on Aloha v10

Great day outdoors. Thank you Alex 👊🏽