Wednesday, April 2

 Failure is not failure 

it’s an index of understanding 

i cursed tore my skin sore status post the frustration of uncertainty when will it go ? how will I know?  readiness cheapened by deservedness (entitlement) traps gift exchange expensive loss less as expectation evaporates ...
         experience
lesson earned once more 
second language no need for translation
confidence born from respect of humility in movement 

F l o w

N1






Monday, March 24

 


sustained L hand DIP strain :/ on God knows what ,but fired first go of session a fun V8 Sidewinder2000 :)

Wednesday, March 12

dyno method for crux 2

Quality session today. I managed couple new climbs on TB1 as warm up in gym (ideal when time permits) then drove to Aloha. I felt much better than last session (prior too cold, never felt engaged). I definitely thrive with warmer conditions. Steve and Alek's input helped (i.e L lower extremity engagement/turning knee in & catching L toe hook off start hold in set up). Getting better lift with hip apex timed precise and I think dyno method might be the way to go for crux 2. As for crux 1, holds are bigger and throw is closer than its felt... i can climb this


3.12.25 | 58°F 28% 





.

NM


Saturday, March 1

C R E A T I N E. [ It works ]

For a myraid of reasons, I had been reluctant over the years to try creatine. I was aware of it even in high school kids were trying it and I was critically skeptical at best. Pushing into my 40s now, out of a concern for studies about muscle wasting as an indicator of aging and the emphasis that I’ve began to place on strength training I decided to finally pull the trigger and try it. Less than 2months in and I’m thankful I did

Supplementing with 3 to 5 grams of creatine daily has been shown to: 

  • Increase muscular strength-endurance & power 
  • Accelerate recovery between bouts of intense exercise 
  • Promote gains in lean muscle mass
  • Improve sports performance involving short- to moderate-duration bursts of high-intensity exertion 
  • Enhance cognition, speed of information processing, and memory, especially in times of metabolic stress, sleep deprivation, and with aging.



Tuesday, February 25

electrolyte fundamentals

 

source: primalhydration ™ 

https://lloydspharmacy.ie/blogs/vitamins-supplements/what-minerals-do-our-bodies-need-and-why

Monday, February 24

optimal nutrition performance windows

30-60 minutes before you climb, eat foods that contain quick digesting carbohydrates. Foods like:

1 oz. pretzels 

1 mini-bagel

1 piece of fruit—apples, bananas, oranges 

 (banana = 30min s/p peak energy)

¼ c dried fruit

8 oz. sports drink 

2 sheets graham crackers

8 oz. chocolate milk

1 packet sports gels (like Gu) 

1 packet sports gummies and chews        

 

Two to four hours before you climb, your body has some time to digest food. This means you can add a little protein, fat, and fiber, such as:

Peanut butter and jelly sandwich with chocolate milk or protein shake


Oatmeal with milk or almond milk, bananas, and walnuts

Tuna wrap with cheese and a side of fruit and yogurt

Fruit smoothie and a protein bar

Trail mix and an apple

Nut butter pouches

String cheese

Jerky

Keep in mind, aim for hydration (e.g. water + electrolytes + splash of tart cherry juice), branch chain amino acids, and complex carbohydrates within 30min-60min post workout to begin recovery/repair/rebuild process. A full meal for individual weighing 70 kilograms (154 pounds), the maximum amount of protein that can be effectively utilized for muscle protein synthesis per meal would be around 17.5 to 28 grams of protein. 0.25g/kg-0.4g/kg bodyweight ; aim for 1.6 to 2.2 g/kg (e.g. 112-154g) daily total for those engaged in regular resistance training

source: Outside ™