FDP engagement

Full collagen turnover in pulleys takes 100–200 days (vs. 1–2 days for muscle protein). This explains why tendons lag behind muscle strength gains and why slow, progressive loading is required .

The A2 pulley receives approximately 30% of the total flexor tendon load in a crimp position, making it the highest受力 structure among the annular pulleys .

The "Density Hangs" (5 on/5 off) and sub-maximal loading protocols align with the physiological reality that pulleys adapt to consistent, predictable line loading but rupture under sudden spikes or fatigue

Collagen alignment without exceeding the structural limits of the tissu

increasing load tolerance in the flexor tendon sheath. . Progressive “Density” Hangs (Slow Twists)

· How: Hang on a 20–25mm edge with half crimp. Add 60–80% of your max hang weight. Hold for 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off for 1 minute (6 reps).

· Why: Repeated, sub-maximal tension hydrates pulley tissue and aligns collagen without causing rupture.

· Frequency: 2x/week, before crimp training.

2. “No-Hangs” with a Grip Block

· How: Use a portable block with 15–20mm edge. Lift with one hand (half crimp), keep shoulder engaged. Do 10-second holds at 70–80% effort.

· Why: Isolates pulleys without bodyweight shock. Easier to adjust load in 1–2kg increments.

· Progression: Add weight when you can do 3 sets of 10s with perfect form.

3. Eccentric Wrist Curls (Reverse)

· How: With a light dumbbell (2–5kg), let the weight pull your wrist into extension, then slowly curl up over 3 seconds.

· Why: Strengthens the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), which cushions the A2 pulley underneath. Weak FDS = higher A2 strain.

4. Loading the “Open Crimp” Position

Many climbers avoid open crimp, but it conditions the pulley’s oblique fibers. Perform 5-second open crimp hangs on a 30mm edge at 50% max weight. This transfers load from A2 to A4/A3, reducing isolated stress.

5. Deload Week Every 4th Week

Do only 50% volume and intensity. Pulley tissue adapts slowly (collagen turnover ~200 days). Overloading without rest leads to “bowing” or rupture.

Signs you’re doing it right:

· Mild soreness to palpation that resolves in 24h.

· No pain during full crimp hangs.

· Clicking or sharp pain = stop immediately (possible partial tear).

Return after A2 injury: At 6 months post-tear, start density hangs with 30% max weight, add 5% weekly if pain-free.

Heavily isolates the muscle and remove skin friction advantage

 sources: Hoopers Beta, DeepSeek Max Climbing, "Tendon & Pulley Biology" 

Impermanence

 

 source: ChatGPT ™ 

 

#blackcanyon ©️ timkemple

finger/fitness ✅ session

x2 7Bs (one @ 45°, one @ 40°), fell on last move of 

 Reduce Reuse Recycle 7C ; future favorite fasho 

Ferraris to test drive

 

 

thankful for time on this board

 

“never surprise fingers”​

Goal is not to "avoid crimps" Reduce force rate and joint collapse during contact

      "LEGENDS" 4th ascent

​time under tension

no thumb wrap

teaches the pulley to tolerate load without movement.

1.

Isometric force absorption (base)

• 20 mm edge
• Half crimp, thumb off
• 7s on / 3s off × 6
• RPE 5–6

This is non‑negotiable for A2 durability.

​2. 

Eccentric control (critical, often skipped)

• Hang in half crimp
• Slowly open the PIP 5–10°
• Re‑close under control

You’re teaching the pulley to resist opening under load — exactly what happens on contact.

Layer 3: Sub‑max dynamic finger engagement

Only after layers 1–2 feel boring.

Good options

• Small controlled bumps between edges
• 
  
  Feet‑on campus laddering
• Assisted deadpoints to large edges

Bad options (for now)

• Max double dynos
• Full‑crimp latches
• Board problems that demand instant closure

How to do wall crawls correctly

• Angle: slightly overhanging or vertical
• Holds: edges you could crimp, but don’t
• Grip: open → half only
• Speed: slow enough to feel finger engagement
• Rule: no popping, no snappn​g

2–3× / week

• Isometric half‑crimp hangs
• Eccentric finger control
• Wall crawls (10–15 min)

1–2× / week

• Modified board sessions: 
• No max dynos
• Limit tries
• Intentional soft catches

Always

• H‑tape
• Thumb off in rehab phase
• Pain next day = your real metric

---

Bottom line (honest and important)

You don’t need to give up jump‑and‑catch forever.

You need to:

• Catch softer
• Close slower
• Train absorption, not just peak force

Do that, and you don’t just heal the A2 —
you come back more accurate, more durable, and harder to injure at V10+.

source: CoPilot ™ 

strength/conditioning : dorsal interosseous

 The dorsal interosseous muscles sit between each metacarpal and function to:

• Spread the fingers apart (abduction)
• Stabilize the MCP joints during high-force flexion (e.g., crimping)
• Help maintain proper finger tracking under load

Crimping heavily stresses the DIP/PIP joints, but the MCP stability provided by DI helps prevent “collapsing” and keeps the fingers from wobbling under tension.

You’re already doing claw‑grip/DIP training — adding DI work will help build the “fine control” that supports crimp power.

---

Effective Exercises to Train the Dorsal Interossei

1. Finger Abduction with Rubber Bands (the gold standard)

These specifically hit the DI harder than almost anything else.

How to do it:

• Place a rubber band or finger extensor band around all 4 fingers (not the thumb).
• Spread your fingers as wide as possible.
• Hold 2–3 sec; slowly return.

Sets/Reps:
3×15–20 (high reps because DI are endurance‑oriented)

Progressions:

• Thicker bands
• Spread only two specific fingers to target a single interosseous pair

---

2. Individual Finger Abduction with a Table Surface

This isolates each dorsal interosseous muscle.

How to:

• Place hand flat on a table.
• Slide, for example, the middle finger sideways away from the index.
• Add a small resistance (e.g., a silicone ring, rubber wedge, or your other hand).

Goal:
Slow, controlled abduction → hold → return.

---

3. “Book Squeeze” (Isometric Abduction)

This is excellent for crimp stability.

How to:

• Place something thin (book, dowel, playing card pack) between two fingers.
• Squeeze fingers side-to-side, not together.
• Hold 10–20 seconds.

This trains lateral stability—essential for accurate, high-force crimping.

---

4. Precision Pinch Variations

Although pinch uses adductor pollicis more, precision pinch between two fingers forces DI to stabilize.

Examples:

• Pinch a credit card between index + middle finger.
• Use progressively heavier or slicker objects.

---

5. Therabar “Finger Waves”

If you have a Therabar:

• Grip it lightly.
• Move individual fingers outward/inward in a wave pattern.

This creates small‑amplitude stabilization challenges for DI.

---

Climbing‑Specific DI Training

6. Crimp‑Position Isometrics with Lateral Tension

This is extremely effective and very climbing‑specific.

How:

• Put your fingertips in half crimp on a flat edge or block.
• Loop a light resistance band around one finger.
• Pull lightly sideways while maintaining crimp.

This forces DI to stabilize the finger against lateral deviation — exactly what they do on real holds.

Start SUPER light. Pain = stop.

---

7. “Edge Tracking” Drills

On a hangboard:

• Place 4 fingers on an edge.
• Alternately lift and slide one finger left/right by 1–2 mm.
• Keep the others still.

This mimics the micro‑adjustments DI make on tiny crimps.

---

Weekly Plan (simple + effective)

2–3× per week:

• Rubber-band abduction: 3×20
• Individual finger abduction: 2×12 each finger
• Book squeeze: 3×15–20 sec
• Edge tracking on hangboard: 1–2 minutes total
• Optional: banded lateral-tension crimp isometrics (super light!)

This combination builds both strength and neuromuscular control.

source: chatGPT ™ 

💔