strength
Couple quick thoughts:
I.
source: i forgot (sorry... in advance of whomever checks my ass)
The STRENGTH to maintain contact on the FINGER holds and the ability to transfer as much tension as needed cephalocaudal chiefly through the CORE all the way down through the toes (unless if it's a dynamic move, I guess, which even then involves aspects of the POSTERIOR CHAIN)
This is the reason for why strength comes first... but is closely followed in order to work (I'd argue even is shadowed symbiotically) with power (i.e. what's the point of holding holds that you can't connect A to B?) and mobility (i.e. to access the range of a strength in a sustainable way). Just to repeat:
strength comes first closely followed, in order to work, with power and mobility.
II.
"Ultimately grading is ... meant to make a climbing feat relatable"
Aidan
I can honestly care less and less about grading. The asterix to this statement is that I find I care more and more about whether I can pull all the moves on a given project (or said in a different way, it bothers me more why I can't do a given move than what its grade is). Is it V7 or V9/10? Should grades be consistent indoors/outdoors? Do I even count the same footholds on a given climb that for someone else is a proud accomplishment they felt worthy to post as a reel on social media. Perhaps I'm just getting old, but what I know for sure is my passion for climbing continues building faster than any senile-ness, or sense of righteousness; Who am I to dictate what your climbing experience is in relation to mine? and vice versa.
This isn't why I climb. Even though, yes climbing grades can be social fare, climbing can be far more complex, multifaceted and involve a range of motivations and emotions than just a number ascribed to a given perceived difficulty level. I do yearn to make climbing relatable as Aidan put it, because I find it satisfying. I'd probably not even bother posting this otherwise, and just jot my notes analog journal style (which I still do as well, and strongly encourage You to try as well). What I've found is more satisfying than grades, accolades, or even rewards.
A hard stop for me in climbing has less to do with climbing feats and more to do with stewardship and preserving climbing as an experience for everyone...including those that come after Us.
I care more about You and I practicing the 7th generation principle than whether You match me surpassing the 7th grade of roped climbing. Can someone relate to the space You're in? To the space you hold for them? To the passion You feel? To the awareness You practice?
I wanted to clarify these aspects because I AM very goal and progression oriented on this blog and in general as a person...climbing 8a+/8B+/8c+ are very real actionable bucket list items to me, but those are personal decisions in terms of my own life trajectory and life satisfaction...
Insofar as my VIPs (values, interests, principles) intersect and interact with other climbers (and folk in general), I don't place much capital in how hard you climb in relation to me, nor whether we conceive of climbing (or a climb) in the same way. Simple as that.
Yes guidebooks and consensus is important, but so is not being an asshole. I don't go to the climbing gym to work my ego or outside to be xenophobic of other user groups.
I utilize what I can
responsibly to make
my body mind and spirit
better at scaling obstacles .
NM
