Beast maker 2000 ™ middle edge PR

 

 RPE 8 

2o25 faLL

Silent But Deadly 7B+/7C 

Aurora 7A+

Aloha Sit 8A

beat 8a.nu 

pr of 8k pts 

(2 V9s, 3 V8s, 5 V7s)

Boss Hog 7C+

Moby Dick 7C+

Prelude to Crimps 7C+

Chaos Roof 7C R

Pineapple Express 7C R

min 1 R block

Blackbird 7B

Swordless Samuari 7B

Honey Crisp 7A+ R

Adventure Time 7A+

Purple People Eaters 7A

Midnight Sun 7C+

explore new area

Teen Wolf 7B+

The General 7B+

Truck Driver Right 7C

Blue Crab 6C+

Next Gen Sit 7B

Pedal 7C+

House of Cards 7C+ R

 

Warm Up Sequelae

Mobility → gentle fluidity of movement; synovial fluid to joints, ROM, "greasing the gears"

Momentum → raising HR/temperature, easy movement/big holds, warm muscles

Fingers → recruitment process, gradual loading from feet on floor to jugs to crimps

Power →fast twitch neuromuscular potentiation explosive coordination, "wired firing together"

 
Don't Always Try to Perform:

Have a purpose for each session that isn't always about beating your personal best. Sometimes training through fatigue or focusing on specific goals is productive.

Arcing and Low Aerobic Work:

Incorporate easy climbing (arcing) to build aerobic endurance, which helps with recovery on holds and between attempts, especially important for sport climbing.

Get the Little Things Right:

Pay attention to hydration, chalk type, and appropriate clothing layers to improve comfort and performance.

Body Tension:

Focus on driving through your feet and maintaining body tension, not just core strength, to improve efficiency and control near your limit.

Track Your Progress:

Keep a training log or diary to monitor long-term progress, which helps maintain confidence and see improvements beyond short-term fluctuations.\

Train the Boring Things:

Don't neglect shoulder stability and flexibility, as these can make a big difference in climbing performance and injury prevention.

Break Down Bigger Goals:

Divide big goals into smaller, manageable chunks to stay motivated and track progress more easily.

Maintain Training During Performance Phases:

Continue some training during peak climbing seasons to avoid burnout and maintain top-end fitness.

Go to the Wall with a Plan:

Have a clear goal or structure for each session to stay focused and motivated, whether it's trying a set number of problems or focusing on project attempts.

Climb Different Styles:

Climbing a variety of styles and routes helps you learn new techniques, balance your strengths and weaknesses, and improve longevity as a climber.

source: lattice ™ , jen wood

 

 

 

 

 

exercises for P O W E R

source: Charlie Schreiber, CSCS