Happy Autumnal Equinox 9.23.23 0250 EST

 

“Silencing my doubts and flipping the switch” Katie Lamb

 

Curtain Call … 

this crucial sequence is what remains now that I’ve unlocked higher percentage tall person start beta (shout out Matt & Steve)

Two (2) helpful methods for grading boulders:

 

1. “spot on”

does it still make sense even if adding or subtracting a single grade ? 

2. “Max’s formula”

(x+y)     + 2

2

(e.g. even though I haven’t yet climbed DErT I’ll grade it V9… V8 into a long V6)

click to enLARGE

May a successful 2023 Qtr 3 Outdoor season begin!

b l e s s i n G

NM

Getting What’s Paid For

 

 Don’t Discount Your Climbing

NWB = 0.5hr

DErT ✅ 3.19.24

DERa ✅ 3.22.24

Curtain Call ✅ 11.4.23

Chaos Roof

Prelude to Crimps

“Doomed Nightmare”

“HaOrder” Proj

“SURFR” Proj

Morgan Run/Patapsco 0.6hr

Crystal Crusade ✅ 

Porteños Go Home

Sykesville Monster

Aloha

Slender Man

14Crimp Proj

Parkton Boulders 0.6hr

Adventure Time

Swordless Samurai

Springfield/Hooes Rd  =0.7hr

Purple People Eaters

Midnight Sun

Catoctin =1hr

The General

Honey Crisp

Never Let Me Go

Teen Wolf

Pineapple Express

Boss Hog

Anthem

Rocks State Park =1.25hrs

Moby Dick

Truck Driver

Blue Crab

Mt Gretna/Governor Dick = 2hrs

Coopers Rock/BubbleWrap = 3.2hrs

New River Gorge = 5.5hrs

Gunks = 5.5hrs

Grayson = 6hrs

.

NM

Summer '23 💥 Power Phase 2 Week 2

Monday 8/14: still struggling with 1-4-7 off L, sent purple comp climb 7C on mega roll!, half crimp feeling stronger ~can hang 6mm without thumb now, 2 x80lbs pull up nearing chest level now

"Progress can manifest in grades, but grades aren't best indicator of progress"

"With complex boulder problems it can be hard to nail down why I failed"

"distill first weakest links; find the pieces of puzzle missing"

"in order of complexity:
hangboards and blocks, then campus board, the next most complicated thing is Tension board, then indoor gym sets, ...keep layering complexity until you finally climb the rock."

from Testpiece Podcast feat. Will Anglin

.

NM

Summer ‘23 Power phase 2 begins

I 

 You need consistency to really evolve

stagnation kills motivation

injury kills progress

Deload Week

 Feeling good with gains achieved after power phase. Last session repeated some benchmarks and have good data for pushing PRs next week when Summer ‘23 training block 2 begins  

campus template to try (+McColl’s hand switches and Paul’s Crosses)

Last session

“I'm glad that the range of moves I can perform has definitely increased compared to before. “ Ryuichi M

'23 Summer Periodization Schedule

 

Heading into the hotter humid months locally and recovering from some scar tissue buildup in L ankle, this is the perfect time to get back to the basics: gym training, goal setting for Fall outdoors, micro/meso periodization optimization, reframing of pressure/passion ... as Son says to 'live it perfectly'

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

⏾ deload week

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

👊POWER ENDURANCE (2) weeks

Goals this Fall are to send  5.14 sport, a particular 13- trad line, & several double digit boulders

Sincerely,

now 40 Year Old Me : )

a successful failure

 

 click to enLARGE

“Dirty Ernie Wall” …an unassuming wall at NWBranch still harbors for me a couple elusive climbs. One of them I’ve dubbed DErT (or “Dirty Ernie Traverse”). 

I have every sequence mastered down to chronology of foot placements/hip adjustments, the hand holds feel bigger than ever I’m breathing well, I feel in control of each movement…until I don’t and then fall …every time thus far. 

For a while I considered it might be easier than I'd thought, but now I’m convinced it warrants double digits at V10. I’m now able to do V9 section 3-5 times in a session but exiting this series of burly moves and linking into the long finale (feels somewhere between 6C to 7A+ on any given day) isn’t as doable for me as I’d forecasted. 

I’ve reliably been doing a one on one off schedule for the past few weeks with steady progress, one regression (see last post), & impressively good weather/conditions. There have been a few very close goes but no bueno on the send. Although my confidence remains that I’ll do this climb, I need a break…physically, emotionally (as does my Family), and psychologically. 

V9 section

"one hang" of this 45 move "sport climb"

Going out with a literal splash 

Till next chapter with

Grace & Gratitude

.

NM

It comes down to the details and margins…

 

5.18

5.20

Two Moves to Go before Links

wrestling Boss   

 

suspension of 

                        disbelief 

release from 

expectation