Summer '23 💥 Power Phase 2 Week 2

Monday 8/14: still struggling with 1-4-7 off L, sent purple comp climb 7C on mega roll!, half crimp feeling stronger ~can hang 6mm without thumb now, 2 x80lbs pull up nearing chest level now

"Progress can manifest in grades, but grades aren't best indicator of progress"

"With complex boulder problems it can be hard to nail down why I failed"

"distill first weakest links; find the pieces of puzzle missing"

"in order of complexity:
hangboards and blocks, then campus board, the next most complicated thing is Tension board, then indoor gym sets, ...keep layering complexity until you finally climb the rock."

from Testpiece Podcast feat. Will Anglin

.

NM

Summer ‘23 Power phase 2 begins

I 

 You need consistency to really evolve

stagnation kills motivation

injury kills progress

Deload Week

 Feeling good with gains achieved after power phase. Last session repeated some benchmarks and have good data for pushing PRs next week when Summer ‘23 training block 2 begins  

campus template to try (+McColl’s hand switches and Paul’s Crosses)

Last session

“I'm glad that the range of moves I can perform has definitely increased compared to before. “ Ryuichi M

'23 Summer Periodization Schedule

 

Heading into the hotter humid months locally and recovering from some scar tissue buildup in L ankle, this is the perfect time to get back to the basics: gym training, goal setting for Fall outdoors, micro/meso periodization optimization, reframing of pressure/passion ... as Son says to 'live it perfectly'

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

⏾ deload week

💪STRENGTH (3) three weeks

💥POWER (2) two weeks

👊POWER ENDURANCE (2) weeks

Goals this Fall are to send  5.14 sport, a particular 13- trad line, & several double digit boulders

Sincerely,

now 40 Year Old Me : )

a successful failure

 

 click to enLARGE

“Dirty Ernie Wall” …an unassuming wall at NWBranch still harbors for me a couple elusive climbs. One of them I’ve dubbed DErT (or “Dirty Ernie Traverse”). 

I have every sequence mastered down to chronology of foot placements/hip adjustments, the hand holds feel bigger than ever I’m breathing well, I feel in control of each movement…until I don’t and then fall …every time thus far. 

For a while I considered it might be easier than I'd thought, but now I’m convinced it warrants double digits at V10. I’m now able to do V9 section 3-5 times in a session but exiting this series of burly moves and linking into the long finale (feels somewhere between 6C to 7A+ on any given day) isn’t as doable for me as I’d forecasted. 

I’ve reliably been doing a one on one off schedule for the past few weeks with steady progress, one regression (see last post), & impressively good weather/conditions. There have been a few very close goes but no bueno on the send. Although my confidence remains that I’ll do this climb, I need a break…physically, emotionally (as does my Family), and psychologically. 

V9 section

"one hang" of this 45 move "sport climb"

Going out with a literal splash 

Till next chapter with

Grace & Gratitude

.

NM

It comes down to the details and margins…

 

5.18

5.20

Two Moves to Go before Links

wrestling Boss   

 

suspension of 

                        disbelief 

release from 

expectation

Gym project SENT ✓

Progress feels good :) ... especially a week removed from a silly lumbar back strain, and a few months shy of my 40th birthday... last gym 7C+ was in my 20s.

Eco-Friendly Climbing: How to Minimize Your Environmental Impact

As rock climbing and bouldering continue to grow in popularity, it's essential for climbers to consider the environmental impact of their outdoor pursuits. Climbing can have detrimental effects on ecosystems and delicate rock formations if not approached responsibly. In this blog post, we will explore practical ways for climbers to minimize their environmental footprint and promote sustainability in the sport.

1. Choose Sustainable Gear

Invest in eco-friendly climbing gear made from sustainable materials or recycled sources. Many brands are now offering products with a reduced environmental impact, such as ropes made from repurposed materials, harnesses made from recycled materials, chalk bags made from organic cotton, biodegradable tape, and magnesium carbonate chalk alternatives . Supporting these companies not only helps protect the environment but also encourages innovation in sustainable gear production

2. Follow Leave No Trace Principles

Adhere to the Leave No Trace principles when climbing outdoors. These guidelines include:

• Plan ahead and prepare: Research the area, know the rules and regulations, and avoid climbing during nesting season for birds or other sensitive times.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces: Stick to established trails and campgrounds to minimize damage to vegetation and soil.
• Dispose of waste properly: Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Use designated bathroom facilities or pack out human waste.
• Leave what you find: Don't pick plants, move rocks, or disturb wildlife. Avoid damaging rock faces by using removable protection or clean climbing techniques.
• Minimize campfire impact: Use a camp stove instead of making a fire, or utilize established fire rings if fires are allowed.
• Respect wildlife: Observe from a distance, avoid feeding animals, and store food and trash securely.
• Be considerate of other visitors: Keep noise levels down and follow the established climbing ethics of the area.

3. Carpool or Use Public Transportation

Reduce your carbon footprint by carpooling with fellow climbers or using public transportation when possible. Not only does this save on fuel and emissions, but it also helps minimize the impact on local resources and parking areas at popular climbing destinations.

4. Participate in Clean-up Events

Join or organize clean-up events at your local climbing areas to help maintain the environment and promote responsible climbing practices. Collecting trash, removing graffiti, and repairing damaged trails are just a few ways you can give back to the outdoor spaces you love.

5. Educate Yourself and Others

Stay informed about local climbing access issues, conservation efforts, and best practices. Share this knowledge with fellow climbers to raise awareness and foster a culture of environmental stewardship within the climbing community.

As climbers, we have a responsibility to protect the natural landscapes that provide us with endless opportunities for adventure and personal growth. By adopting eco-friendly practices and encouraging others to do the same, we can minimize our environmental impact and preserve these incredible outdoor spaces for future generations. Let's work together to make climbing a sustainable sport that respects and cherishes our planet.

Sincerely, guest post writer,

ChatGPT4

power work

 sometimes it’s about letting go …

of pride in a stubborn project

of weight of expectation, pessimism

… and gravity

shalom

NM