Excellent Gym Session : )

Saturday, February 19th, 2011:

Progress is being had with my training! It's a special moment when you can savor the process without concern for the end result...today was one of those moments. Here's what went down:

• 12 boulder problems v5-v10 (2 v5s, 1 v6, 4 v7s, 2 v8s, 2 v9s, & 1 v10)
• Quality Campus Board Workout (8th and final one I've decided before Smith Rocks)
• 5.12a/b 3rd go (hardest lead of 2011)
• 5.11b flash as brutal "cool down"

With three (3) weeks remaining before Smith now, I'm going to scale back on the bouldering (30 min max/session) and focus primarily on lead climbing. I'll supplement this with core work, endurance cross training, and probably some hangboard'n at the house to keep the fingers snappy.

Here's the footage of what might just be the hardest boulder problem I've scaled at EarthTreks.

Climb hard, have fun.

Glorify God in all that you do.

NM

SMITH ROCKS “Ticklist” – March 12th-20th, 2011

Here is my ambitious itinerary... in reality, sending any of these would be fantastic !

Shipwreck Wall

Liquid Jade 5.12a/b, bolts (note: get Scott back on Blue Light Special 5.11a?)

Aggro Gully

Aggro Monkey 5.13b, bolts

The Quickening 5.12d, bolts

Scene of the Crime 5.13b/c, bolts

Honeycomb Wall

Up for Grabs 5.11d, bolts

Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder 5.10a, bolts

West Ship – River Face

Feet of Clay 5.12b, bolts

Power 5.13b, bolts

Solar 5.9 (three pitches), bolts

Time’s Up 5.13a/b, bolts

The Blade 5.12a, bolts (note: need stick clip)

Skeleton Surfer 5.11b, bolts

Cocaine Wall

Freebase 5.12a, bolts

Powder Up the Nose 5.10d, bolts

Rolling Stones Wall

Exile on Main Street 5.11a, bolts

Churning Buttress

Oxygen 5.13a/b, bolts

Da Kine Corner 5.12b/c, bolts (note: need stick clip)

Kings of Rap 5.12d, bolts

Churning in the Wake 5.13a, bolts

Morning Glory Wall - Overboard Area

Taco Chips 5.12d, bolts

Magic Light 5.12b, bolts

Morning Glory Wall - Zebra Area

Zebra Seam 5.11d, bolts/gear?

Zebra Direct 5.11a, bolts

Zebra 5.10a, gear to 3” (three pitches)

Choss in America 5.12c , bolts (note: starts at 2^nd pitch ledge of Zebra Zion?)

The Four Horsemen

Calamity Jam 5.10c, bolts

Pack Animal Direct 5.10b, bolts

The Dihedrals

Latest Rage 5.12b, bolts

Watt’s Tots 5.12b, bolts

Latin Lover 5.12a, bolts

Karate Wall 5.12b, bolts

Sunshine Dihedral 5.11d, bolts

Take a Powder 5.12a, bolts

Peepshow 5.12a/b, bolts

French Connection 5.13b, bolts

Last Waltz 5.12c, bolts

Heinous Cling 5.12c R, bolts

Darkness at Noon 5.13a, bolts

Vision 5.12b, bolts

Go Dog Go 5.12c, bolts

Christian Brothers – The Prophet Wall

Boy Prophet 5.12b R, bolts

Choke on This 5.12d, bolts

Rude Boys 5.13b/c, bolts (note: get Scott’s son-in-law on Dancer 5.7 @ Combination Blocks Area?)

Monkey Face – West Side

West Face Variation 5.8, gear to 2.5” (three pitches)

Monkey Face – North Side

North Face 5.12a, gear to 2.5” (two pitches)

Monkey Face – East/ South Side

Pioneer Route 5.7 A1, gear to 1.5” (five pitches)

Monkey Space 5.11b, bolts/optional gear to 2” (three pitches)

Astro Monkey 5.11d, gear to 2” (six pitches)

Miscellaneous

Delirium Tremens 5.10a

Drilling Zona 5.11c

Badfinger 5.10b, gear to 2.5”

On the Road 5.11a, gear to 2.5” (small TCUs)

Pure Palm 5.11a

Wherever I May Roam 5.9 (five pitches)

Two of many ...

(click to enLARGE)

Looking forward to good friends, good climbing, and good times.

God bless everyone.

NM

photo courtesy of : http://www.mountainproject.com

Glimpse of a workout (02/08/11) during my six-week campus board phase of periodization training. The set of rungs I am using are the medium size (largest is the middle set)... I'll start to use the small rung set soon.

(note: soundtrack is a free music download courtesy of djshadow.com)

Current Inventory of My Gear...

Ropes (1)

1 x 60 meter (on its way out)

Harnesses (2)

Rock Shoes (3 pair)

Chalkbags (2)

Helmets (1)

Cams (7)
w/ 7 carabiners
1x3”
1x2”
1x1”
1x.75”
2x.3”
1x.25”

Draws (15)
i.e. 30 carabiners

Nuts (20)
1x full set (w/ some hexes too)

Locking Carabiners (5)

Belay Devices (2)
1x ATC Guide
1x Gri Gri

Slings
3x48”

Miscellaneous
3x Rope Bag
1x Personal Anchor System
1x 8’ Cordelette

Training Continues...

footage courtesy of Suradetch